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24-Apr-2017

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15 & 18 inch Bass Cabinet From Celestion UK

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Author: admin
Date: 04-Sep-08

[dancetech database recompiled in 1999 - some articles listed April '99 are older]


Ideal for club and party systems, this is a really easy to build ported cabinet of the type you see used by sound-systems which can be built for various speaker sizes, (and as a smaller full-range speaker if you add a crossover and tweeter), but is added here primarily for people to build for their bass cabs!

These plans were sent in by Peter at Celestion UK (thanks mate!), and will work with all their branded speakers and others (LINK TO CELESTION PA DRIVERS PAGE)... a real easy cab.... sizes included for different drivers. - VERY easy to build and you can simply double the width dimension to add two 18" drivers to make a dual bass cab!!!

The entire cabinet has a planed hardwood baton all around the side and top/bottom & front/back inside-edges for SOLID re-enforcement!.... Make sure you fit the batons well if built for 18" bass!!.... Use quality Plywood if you can afford it.. if not, use MDF... probably it'll be best to also add metal corner re-inforcing plates too to protect the corners from getting mashed when you move it... and add a steel mesh/grill to the outside to stop the speaker getting bashed in....


The best way to build this sort of box, is to saw all your batons and side & top/bottom panels first, then fit the batons all round the edges of the side-panels... glueing and screwing them down firmly all round the edges leaving an 18mm gap between the panel-edges & the baton so that the front, back, top and bottom panels fit snugly against the batons & flush with the side-panel edges when offered up to the baton...

Leave the sides overnight after fitting the batons so the glue can FULLY dry!!... DRY WOODGLUE IS HARDER THAN WOOD so use plenty of glue so it oozes out after fitting and screwing down the batons... wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth and leave to dry!...

The side-panels will then be 100% solid..... The next day, offer up the top & bottom plates first and drill & screw them down so you have a finished box but with no front or back panels...

Finaly create your front panel with the round hole for the speaker, and screw & glue that down firmly...

NEXT create your back panel & fit it... either screwed ONLY if the speaker-driver is rear-loading, so you can remove the back-panel and change the driver if it blows... or if the driver is front-loading, glue & screw the rear panel too.... AFTER FITTING YOUR CONNECTOR SOCKET OF COURSE!!!...

Ok......mark everything out and check it all fits before drilling and glueing & screwing it together...


All in all it's easy eh!!.... if creating a dual 18" then you can further re-enforce the front speaker-carrying panel with batons screwed & glued running across the front-panel inside face between the speaker holes....

If you build the box for a 10" or 12" speaker you can add a tweeter & crossover...

Check it out, and good luck!




[all measurements in mm]
[3 'option' sets of measurements for each driver (except 10"/12") - each builds the same volume box.]



LOUDSPEAKERS Ported bass cabinet for 10", 12", 15" & 18" drivers
PERFORMANCE not listed
CONSTRUCTION Pretty simple.
make sure all edges are glued and screwed well... this has to be really well built to withstand bass vibrations without farting and buzzing... so add PLENTY of glue until it oozes out when you join the edges together for the final screw down.
MATERIALS 18mm, 3/4", 8' X 4' board (2438 X 1219) ply or MDF
VOLUME Total = 30 - 150 litres


For a 2 bass-driver / Dual 18" cab: double the cabinet width (X) and duplicate the speaker-driver port/hole... (and mebbe add baton bracing-struts, as noted above, to the inside face of speaker-carrying front-panel for extra strength


CLICK TO VIEW & DOWNLOAD THE PLANS


[plans will print out to an A4 page]

CLICK TO GO TO CONSTRUCTION TIPS PAGE


(very important to read this !!)


Good luck & happy building!














COMMENTS FOR:

'15 & 18 inch Bass Cabinet From Celestion UK'


There are a total:  18  comments posted to this page.


Name:  k
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-Dec-99

xcfxcc xc xcv xgdry xcvx gjgfjytsdr yy yiky

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Name:  ok all working
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Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-Dec-99

18" bass bin is now added & comment-add fixed

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Name:  joelalbi
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Activity:  part-timer
Date:  30-Dec-99

I might be mistaken, and correct me if im wrong but as a port length is given on the chart for all but the 10 inch box, surely they all have to be ported?

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Name:  Peter
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Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-Dec-99

Hi there,

as I understand the drawing right, the "D" is the bass reflex port and not a tweeter hole... But correct me, if I'm wrong,

Peter

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Name:  munte
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Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-Dec-99

Hi i love the site

Do you have plans for the EAW speakers

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Name:  CARL
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  30-Dec-99

SPEAKER PLAN ON EAW MID BASS HORNS.MR 102

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Name:  kilo
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-Dec-99

test..... great easy to make bass-cab...

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Name:  Albert edwards
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Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  17-Jun-05

could i use any of these in the boot of a35 bmw

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Name:  santosh
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Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-Jun-05

sEND AS THE PLANS

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Name:  wil
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Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  12-Sep-05

can you help me i need some plans on a b139 bass box well 2 actualy i have a set of kef cresta 30s and i whant to sit them on top of two bass boxes thay are a hundred LTs and i can build but cant desine for shit help me ya get mi

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Name:  wavesound
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  09-Dec-05

Man Nice page,

Made a few system from the Fane book!!

Just about to design a system here in cardiff, ( fancy the EAW you have here)

Like the look of the Behringer stuff for price/output but alot of people turn there nose up at it!

Again thanks and any tips send em on!

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Name:  Mike Scott
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  11-Jan-06

One thing to change... The sides should really be the top and bottom, reason being long term strength. By making the sides sit on top of the bottom panel there is a lot less chance of the joint breaking if dropped.

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Name:  Michael
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Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  07-Mar-06

hey, gonna make me a 15" bass bin for my bass guitar! Question...is D the bass port for sure? Want to make sure, don't want mistakes here! Thanks alot for this instruction. Great sense of humer on why it's written! Got help and laugh at same time :)

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Name:  Paul C.
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Activity:  Professional
Date:  06-Aug-06

The hole D is not a port, it is a tweeter hole. Read again where it says, "For a bass bin, ignore the extra tweeter hole (D)... just add bass-driver ONLY.... "

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Name:  bass king
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Activity:  part-timer
Date:  16-Nov-06

emm site is way basic , why wolud you want a 100litres box for a 15" sub?? , 30-40 litres is most i seen and get 120db from a single gt4-15 jbl subwoofer.

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Name:  John Silva
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  22-Oct-12

I wish it was a little more specific about the materials need to complete the project. if anyone can go into detail about how to do this, please contact me at ' airwavejamm@gmail.com '
Appreciated,
John Silva :)

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Name:  Cosmo
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Activity:  Professional
Date:  17-Dec-15

Isn't it patently obvious that this is a reflex ported cabinet as there is no way in hell they could be sealed. The volume needed to make a sealed 18" bass cabinet would be big enough to fill up a room. The hole D, as someone rightly pointed out, is the port opening and not, as the description says, for a tweeter. The port length is even given in the dimensions except for the 10" where i guess you only need the opening without a port tube. Great plans shame about the description!

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Last added comment

Name:  neel
Email: 
Website?:  face book
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  27-Jan-16

good bass bin

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