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d.i.y. synth repair

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Author: xoxos
Date: 12-Nov-00

[dancetech database recompiled in 1999 - some articles listed April '99 are older]




disclaimer: i have no formal electronics training. this article consists of information i have amassed through my own careful observation. i am not in the least responsible for any damage you might inflict upon your equipment.




introduction
basics
identifying the problem
soldering
removing soldered components
repairing knobs, switches, buttons, sliders and jacks
fixing dead keys
cleaning
modifying


footnotes:
a warning against static
nomad's tips (repairing dead voices et c.)




intro:


many of the common repairs on your electronics gear can be repaired with a little carefully employed ingenuity. after all, wouldn't you rather spend a short time becoming better acquainted with your gear than part with perhaps a week's wages to pay someone else to fix something you might have done yourself in half an hour? i would however, suggest leaving all repairs to the manufacturer while the unit is still under warranty.

as far as i know, there are only a couple of things to keep in mind when you go poking around inside your expensive electronics in order to prevent any further damage to them. (please read warning footnote) the first is that, in order to function, everything must retain it's physical integrity. don't break things, crack your printed circuit boards (pcb) or leave little bits of metal lying around inside that might cross circuit paths. the second is that, as far as i know, if you do the first, you'll be okay. there are no parts inside any synths i know of that you can't expose to light or mess up by breathing on or anything. so if you are careful when you open your boards up, you should make out okay.

the exception to this is that some delicate elements are sensitive to intense heat, such as from a soldering iron. this is really limited to things with delicate microcircuitry, like chips and transistors. when you solder these things, don't leave the iron on them for ten minutes. more on that later.

i started opening electronics with the intent of fixing them :) in 1991. since then, i have resuscitated several tape decks, many broken keys on keyboards, buttons on an se50 effects processor and 2 keyboards, sliders on a jx-3p keyboard, and repaired a speak & spell and a dr110 drum machine by replacing a chip and a capacitor, effectively bringing them back to life. and god knows how many times i fixed knobs, replaced the motors and adjusted the trim pots on my tascam portastudio.




basics:


if you own anything electronic, you really should buy a soldering iron of some sort. if you expect to get into building modular systems, buy a fancy heat regulated one you'll have to look into yourself. for just about anything else, a standard soldering 'pencil' should do you just fine. they are usually available for below $15 at radio shack, walmart, or whatever chain stores grace our nations in the future. other tools you will appreciate would be a pair or two of small pliers, often called jeweler's pliers. something you can grab or twist small sections of wire with. maybe a pair of tweezers, a knife or clippers you can strip wire with, a few screwdrivers.. usually it's worth it to buy a fair quality smaller headed phillips. once i had an ensoniq board i needed allen keys to open, but that's about all i've ever worked with. i've never even owned a multimeter (because i'm pissed that i can't find any solar powered ones out there.. someone loaned me one once.. if you see one.. let me know!)

open up your piece of compromised studio gear, leaving a large uncluttered workspace so you can lay out your screws in the same pattern you took them out. undoing the case is often the most difficult part, so make sure you're feeling patient. if you think you'll need to, set out some blank sheets of paper, then you can draw little diagrams to let you know which screw goes where. to be honest, this part can drive you crazy with some items because the design leaves no room to use tools easily.. my fostex hard disk recorder has some screws you need to use a bit of voodoo for (and a magnetic headed screwdriver) but this is the exception. just take your time, and remember a forced screw will strip the threads and be worse next time. loose casings vibrate and make noise you don't want to hear.

now the horror part is over. take a look at the circuit boards. there are a couple of components you'll recognize straight off the bat. you'll probably see several chips.. little black rectangles with several leads running into them. resistors are little cylinders with wires running in each end. they have coloured bands on them to identify their value. capacitors are usually flat disks like a lollipop with two sticks. jacks are the things you plug cables into from outside the casing, and pots (potentiometers) are knobs. trim pots are usually tiny pots that have a space for a screwdriver in the middle to turn.. these are pots that are tuned after assembly but aren't needed for operation. diodes look like resistors but are often made out of clear plastic.. they are a little different in that diodes have an 'in' and an 'out' whereas i think most resistors can go in either way. usually diodes have an arrow in a circle on them to let you know which way they are going. i believe leds are diodes (light emitting diode?) you might see little metal cylinders with three 'legs,' which i think are usually transistors :) don't worry, you don't need to know what is what in order to repair anything you can repair w/o having a much greater comprehension of electronics than you'll pick up here.




identifying the problem:


now inspect your circuit board. what you are looking for is any obvious sign of physical damage. resistors with black burn marks on them, capacitors that have popped open with cotton wool, or the trickiest, any connections on the circuit board itself that are cracked or otherwise broken or joined. sometimes a little piece of slopped solder can get stuck between two paths.

some areas to especially watch for are anywhere where strain might have been put on the pcb from outside.. ie. around jacks.. every time you insert a lead a little strain is put on the pcb and sometimes the solder breaks loose or cracks. when i open a piece of equipment up, i always make sure all the jacks are securely affixed to the board with loads of solder to increase stability. often, pot connections can crack when you press down inadvertantly on your knobs when you're tweaking away delightedly.

that's basically it. just look for anything that doesn't look like it should be that way. it can be a bit of work because cracks in solder can be minute but will still create unreliable connections. if everything looks fine, and the problem is an operational one, occasionally you can trace it down to one element, but i'd call that intermediate troubleshooting and wouldn't recommend it on a first date. if a button isn't working and the gear is old, it's probably the button. if a jack isn't working, the jack probably needs to be cleaned. once my dr110 sequencer stopped working (i actually burned it out with installing an external clock modification) and i traced the circuit board to a chip that seemed to be the only thing in the circuit path that could be causing the trouble, so i replaced it (which was hell to do) and got lucky, because chips usually won't show outwards signs of damage.

a final note on inspecting your gear. don't be intimidated by 'sandwich boards.' most gear will have a couple of layers of circuit boads on top of each other, and if you're trying to get to the one on the control surface to fix a slider or something, it might involve removing a lower board and an auxiliary board. just be real careful. it can easily take 1/2 hour to do this, but don't be daunted. sometimes an hour of scrutiny can save you an awful repair bill. all you've really got to do is not damage anything when you take it apart, and put it back together the way it originally was.




soldering:


so you've found your problem, and all you've got to do is gloop a bit of solder on. first off, most hardware shops will sell a couple of different kinds of solder. you probably don't need to know this, but the kind you want will be 60% tin and 40% lead or something like that. with the ratios the other way round, you've got electrical solder, as opposed to electronic solder, which is very difficult to work with for electronics, but better for glooping over household wiring. if you've bought electrical solder by mistake, take it back, it's not worth the trouble.

your solder will have a resin flux core. this makes it easier to work with. make sure you've got a lot of ventilation because it stinks to high heaven (but it's a good smell.. makes me feel mad, mad in a good way..) if you're in a closed room, just forget all about it. you won't want that smell around any longer than you have to.

plug in your soldering pencil. make sure you've got a nice stand to put it on so you don't leave marks in your carpet, and that all your work space is going to be covered (so you won't glop solder on your carpet..) and that when you move your iron around you won't tangle your power cord around anything.

solder needs to be hot. let your iron heat up for 5 minutes. practice working with your solder.. make sure the fumes don't do straight up into your face.. what you want to do is have your solder wire sticking straight out into a space you can scoop it up in easily. it will melt and drip right onto your iron. keep it on the tip of the iron.. tip down.. and practice getting the right amount so you've got a nice little drip hanging off the end. it should be large enough that when you touch something with it, it will drip off and run over it. old solder can be used (pre-used solder that has had the resin core burned out) but it is difficult, so try and avoid it at first.

the part you need to solder should be preheated.. take two wires, strip the ends, twist them together and touch the iron to them for about 5 seconds (clean iron.. if you've got solder on it, tap it off.) then quickly scoop up a bit of solder (you should now be used to how much you need) and touch the droplet to the connection.. you'll see the solder just slides off and coats all over the bare wires, perfectly, like a work of art. if your wires are cold, the droplet will stick to where you touch it, but not flow and coat, so you'll make a connection, but not as durable as it could be. simple. mission accomplished.

if you're soldering a mechanical element like a jack, then you can probably preheat it to your heart's content. if you're soldering something like a resistor, be a little cautious, and maybe max out with 4 or 5 seconds of iron-to-resistor contact. 2 or 3 should probably be enough. if you are soldering to a chip, be very careful, maybe 2 seconds preheating. a chip is basically a stamped out mini-pcb with resistors and capacitors in miniature sealed inside of it (as far as i know :) because the elements are smaller, they are more delicate, and more than a few seconds could fry it. remember to watch out where the wires go.. you might be soldering one end of a wire or path on the pcb to a resistor, but the other end of the path goes into a chip.. the heat is going to be conducted down that path, so keep an overview of what you're doing.




removing soldered components:


this isn't difficult, just requires common sense and patience. every element is going to be attached by at least two posts.. what you're going to need to do is 'walk' it out, by heating up one connection until the solder is liquid, pulling it out as far as it will go without damaging it, then heat up another, pull it out a little farther, et c.

you can get special tools to suck up excess solder, like a turkey baster thing, and i guess they're not too expensive, but i've always just used the iron to scoop it up, maybe use a knife or a wire to push it onto the iron, and occasionally a drinking straw to BLOW hot liquid solder off. keep in mind that once you heat it up, you're going to need to pull it out a little, and your fingers probably won't enjoy that, so this is where a pliers comes in handy.. usually i get situated so i can pull the element up or out with the pliers while pushing against the mount with another finger. common sense.




repairing knobs, switches, buttons, sliders and jacks:


i've done this more times than i can recall. especially on older gear, these elements are proprietary and are often going to be impossible to replace, so take good care of them.

the good news is that most of these things are not sealed, which means that they have perhaps a plastic body with a metal top wrapped around it.. all you have to do is carefully bend the tabs up then take it apart. be careful when you do this with buttons and switches, because occasionally they have little springs inside them that you don't want to lose.

like corrosion on a battery, electrical contact on your jacks, buttons and sliders eventually builds up a residue that can eventually block the electrical contact. so all you need to do is clean this up. scrape it off gently, taking care not to bend or deform the part.. often buttons have little flexible bubbles that pop in or out to give the button a nice spring. again, it's all good if you take a little care. for cleaning, i recommend the best friend a tech enabled person can have, which is isoproyl (rubbing) alcohol, available at your local pharmacy for less than a dollar for a huge bottle. alcohol evaporates 100% and is better for cleaning your components than any fancy product. this comes to me from a man with a commercial studio with a couple of 48 track tape machines in it. once you've got your parts cleaned, put it carefully back together (the springs can be tricky, but never impossible.)

i have also fixed several sealed parts.. some buttons and switches have a plastic body with two halves melted together. this is a bitch but you carefully incise along the seam with the sharpest x-acto blade you have. again.. care.. so you don't cut anything you don't want to cut because god knows what the inside looks like. open carefully so little springs and bubble parts don't pop out and so you can see how it goes together. once you've cleaned off the corrosion, it's up to you to decide how to best put it back together. see if you can buy a new one.. if not, i usually melt the plastic case together, often melting bits of metal wrapped into the case to keep it secure so the button works well. i swear i have performed this successfully several times. my fully operational se50 is proof enough.

sometimes a slider or switch can be a real test of your dexterity. some kinds have little copper 'saw horses' that fold over a strip of 'teeth,' with a plastic case that fits over them and moves the 'sawhorse' between each tooth (often a couple in series for some multi position switches.) these little copper bits are super delicate and buckle or tear in normal operation. just be really careful with them.. they often need to be coaxed back into shape to make sure the contact is tight. best of luck.




fixing dead keys:


every keyboard but one (sequential pro one) i've used has had the same kind of key trigger mechanism.. a rubber strip of bubbles that have little black pads on the inside of the bubbles that press down onto the circuit board to join the circuit path. cleaning them is the simplest repair of all.

these rubber strips are affixed to the circuit board by little 'plugs' that go into holes on the board itself. i've never seen them glued down, and sometime i'll probably try cleaning off a strip really good then gluing it down to seal it. simply poke the little plugs out of the holes, lift up the rubber strip (only as much as you need to..) and behold the collection of fluff and eyelashes that somehow gets into your keyboard. clean all the dust and debris off with a q-tip and isopropyl alcohol (again, the cheap stuff, but 90% is better than 70%) and then push the little rubber plugs back in their homes. all of a sudden your key works again.




cleaning:


it's amazing how much filth can get inside your gear. feathers, hair, anything. i've even seen some pretty big bugs that must have grown once they got inside. so clean it all off, carefully.. wipe up extra dust with isopropyl on a kleenex or q-tip. blow through a drinking straw to remove dust from busy circuit boards. moisture in the air can make the dust clump and grow, and who knows, maybe a bit of conductive material will find it easy to stick to the board. i've seen factory solder jobs with loose drips that shake off and rattle around. just be careful.. i've had ONE synth casualty.. when i cleaned out my jx-3p (the filthiest thing ever.. must have been buried underground..) i still don't know how i did it, but the chorus never turned off afterwards.. the button lights on and off, but somewhere i nudged something. i'm not deterred by this, due to the dozens of successful repairs.




modifiying:


an introduction. there are only a few things i am brave enough to modify. first off, a potentiometer (any slider or knob that isn't a switch) is just a variable resistor. so if you've got an ANALOG item, you can take out the resistors and plop in (or span with.. but this only increases the resistance value) potentiometers. on this you should make sure your potentiometer is appropriate.. pots have 2 ratings.. the ohm-resistance value, ie. 10k, 5m. and the wattage rating. (if i'm not mistaken, the wattage on most consumer electronics is 1/4 watt, but i think you can use anything with a higher watt rating, because this is more a tolerance value than a performance value. but i could be wrong. ask someone at the store, and i guess don't risk anything you couldn't stand to lose.) so if you've got a 50k resistor, try using a 100k pot, because a value of 1000k probably won't give you the precision to dial in useful settings.

for instance, on analog drum machines, resistors are used to set the decay time of sounds, the frequency, et c. so by substituting a variable resistor, you can make your drums longer, or change the pitch, stuff like that.

i also mess with the trim pots on analog circuitry.. you might want to mark their original value because these are often set with meters, oscilloscopes or whatever. trim pots are mini pots used to set factory performance values, such as the speed of tape transport on cassette decks (heh heh) i found some interesting adjustments on an ibanez analog delay i have.. by adjusting the trim pot, i could degrade the signal of the delay, making this awful 'gristlizing' effect. i also managed to double the delay time by bridging two of the poles with a switch.. i mounted the switch on the outside, so now i can flip it while something is delaying and double or halve the delay time, which is kinda cool for some things. just remember that bridging gaps can sometimes burn stuff out that isn't prepared for it, so proceed at your own risk.

the other thing i feel safe modding is digital circuitry on something cheap and nasty, like a speak & spell.. there are many attestments to post-s&s instruments on the web.. my advice here is STAY AWAY FROM THE POWER SUPPLY.. you know.. where the plug is, and any of the components in that area, ie. the large cylinder shaped capacitors.. but anything in the 'logic' area is fair game.. you can change the pitch, trigger syllables and make many, many bizarre alterations.. it's a wonderland of fun. just pick two points and connect them with a wire. throw in a potentiometer in your bridging line and see what happens.. you'll probably mount a good dozen useful switches and knobs to the outside of your speak & spell that are just plain funny.

of course, electronics is not ridiculously esoteric and probably isn't difficult to learn on your own if you apply yourself. there are some great old books from the seventies and eighties on electronics for synths but now everyone's interested in digital this and that so you can't buy them new. i'm almost tempted to steal some from the local university (nooooo..) but it's definately not rocket science, and so far, the rewards of being a little explorative have been absolutely rewarding. happy hacking.




a warning against static:


after writing this article i asked for commentary, and recieved the following:

johnny@large writes:
one very, very important omission is a warning against static damage. there are components in there that can be ruined just by touching them, if you haven't grounded yourself and stay grounded. it's the CMOS IC's and transistors that you have to be incredibly careful with. even down to using anti-static pliers/tweezers and a soldering iron with a grounded tip. but the problem is, unless you know the codes it's nigh on impossible to figure out what's vulnerable and what isn't, so treat everything with extreme caution. even some capacitors are susceptible to ESD.

CMOS is a type of chip (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) that is easily damaged by even tiny amounts of static electricity. most, if not all digital IC's in modern gear are CMOS-based, but there's a lot of older stuff that was based around the much less vulnerable TTL chips. some people think that it's not a big issue but the problem is this:

you can damage the chip without having any immediate failures, i.e. you don't know about it.

problems surface later in the chip's life due to ESD, and because of the length of time between exposure and symptoms people don't make the connection.

you can build up enough static to damage parts by just walking across the floor, putting your coat on or taking it off etc. make no mistake - if you're handling these components you *must* remain grounded with a wrist strap or otherwise.


in response to this, i have pieces that are still operating perfectly seven years after being repaired without special anti-static equipment, just taking care not to shuffle across the carpet and touch something grounded first. other people responded that static electricity should be considered, but is not all as risky as put forth above.

how to ground yourself:
this is again, all word of mouth and observation, not institutional learning. the electricity in my house is grounded by being attached to the plumbing (which goes into the ground..) i usually install components in my pc in the kitchen, where i can touch the plumbing to discharge any static electricity and then handle the components without having to move. this has always produced successful results for me.

another way i've heard you can discharge static electricity is to touch the power supply (the large metal block inside your item.. **not plugged in though!!!**) and i understand the convention is to use a wrist strap attached to a ground, for which again, i understand that the psu is sufficient.

of course, damballah's surefire method is to attach a ground cable directly to a piercing (come on.. you're a synthesist.. you've got to have one..) just don't forget about it when you rush off to get the doorbell.




nomad's tips (repairing dead voices et c.)


assorted comments:
static sensitive pliers??? i agree, static is something to keep in mind, but a lot easier to control than this. rehash from my ESD (electrostatic discharge, technical term for blasting the chip with static electricicy) class:

400 volts is enough to kill most chips (but many chips have ESD protection built in too).... if you feel the shock it's like 1000 volts. if you see the arc it's like 4000 volts.

ssm chips are supposed to be particularly static-sensitive (this was actually part of the reason SCI switched from SSM to CEM on the rev-3 prophet 5's, according to legend.)

yes, wattage ratings are more like tolerance, they are MINIMUM values, but you can go as high as you want.... the flip side being the higher wattage things are more expensive, so don't use too much more than you have to.

also, with many pieces you should try a software reset (if it has any) before even opening the box....the oberheim matrix6 in particular often exhibits all kinds of problems, that can be fixed with a soft reset (hold down "store" while turning the unit on.)

one last comment....you should be careful doing this, if you don't do it right you CAN make things worse....and the tech will have to do more work to fix it = more expensive.

desoldering - the "melt & pull" method works for resistors etc, but often does NOT work for ics.. there are just too many pins. i would suggest desoldering braid; it takes a little getting used to, but you can put desoldering braid against all 4 pins on one side of an IC, hit them all with the soldering iron... much faster.


dead voices:
this applies mostly to polyphonic synths; of course a mono only has 1 voice; easy to figure out. usually, the voices are laid out on the circuit board in a logical manner; for example, the juno 106's 6 voices are in order from left to right; the chroma polaris's 6 voices are laid out from top to bottom. figuring out which voice is out (by playing) is slightly different for each synth, but identifying that voice on the board is usually pretty easy.

for monos..... if you don't get any output. what to do, what to do. we'll start with your standard analog... it has oscillators (VCOs), filters (VCF), and output amp (VCA). oh yeah, and envelopes/LFOs. LFOs are usually just oscillators, trimmed a little differently, there are usually separate envelopes per voice, but only 1 lfo common to all voices (2 if it has 2 LFOS, etc.)

so figure out which part of the voice is failing. envelope/LFO doesn't work? -> obvious choice. if you are getting no output at all, and it self-oscillates, you can set the filter to self-osc to check to see if it works.... if self-oscillation works, but the oscs don't, then it's probably a VCO problem. this doesn't apply to digital synths obviously... those are a whole other issue, and not easy to do DIY fixes...even the manufacturers just do a board swap, they don't often troubleshoot them either (sort of like computers.... err....)

now, if you open it up, you have an idea of what to look for. obvious choices are any chip which is marked CEM or SSM.... these were used in many synths. some use "all-in-one" chips.... the matrix 6 mentioned above is a good example, it uses the CEM 3396, which is a single chip with VCOs, a 4-pole VCF, and a few VCAs (for envs) built in; if you have a bad voice, this chip is probably the culprit. the chroma polaris, OB xpander, and ax80 use a different combination chip, the CEM3372, which has the filter & VCA parts, but no oscillators (separate chip).

here's a partial list: VCO chips (used for LFOs often too): CEM 3340, CEM 3374. VCF chips (standalone): SSM 2044, SSM2040, CEM3320, CEM3328. VCA chips (standalone): SSM 2024, CEM3330. ENV chips (if analog): SSM 2056, CEM 3310.

also many rolands used the 80017A filter "module", it's a thing with about 10 pins in a single row. the juno 106 and mks30 have these, as examples, and they are known to go bad. a lot of old yamahas have standard chips like this, although they are also hard to get. the CEMs are pretty easy to get a hold of.

a more complete list of synths & what chips they used is at www.synthtech.com look in CEM stuff. they also sell CEMs. some are expensive but at least you can get them. if it's SSM.... they are considerably harder to get.

if it's a mono... you're done. start with the obvious and try replacing stuff. if it's a poly... you can do some extra stuff to save time. if everything is in a socket... you are so much better off. you can use a pair of IC extractor to switch chips between voices (for example, if you know that voice 1 is broke, and you suspect the filter chip, swap the filter chips from voice 1 and voice 2, and see if voice 2 is now broke... if voice 1 now works and voice 2 is broke, you found the problem; if voice 1 is still broke, it's something else.)

many synths with bad voices can be repaired easily by replacing CEMs.

other ICs to suspect: analog switches (these are anything in the 4000 series, for example if you see CD4013, that's a 4000 series. make sure you match it.) op amps (usually 8 pins, many different kinds, common ones though are TL072, TL082, NE5532, 741, 4558, 1458) sometimes blow too.... if they are old sometimes they can be replaced with better, lower-noise versions. these are less likely to blow than the voice chips, it seems, but it does happen, and they are lot cheaper to experiment with.

scratchy pots can also be bad capacitors; if cleaning the pot doesn't seem to help, check near the pot, follow the traces to see if any capacitors seem connected (they are usually round, cannister things or flat cookie-looking things; the round ones are usually marked "35V" or something like that, and hopefully something "uF" or "pF;" replacing these might help (and is cheap to try.)

hth....














COMMENTS FOR:

'd.i.y. synth repair'


There are a total:  108  comments posted to this page.


Name:  mike
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  13-Dec-03

Hi,I have korg dx 5,in each octive the C D and E keys are working all the rest are dead,can you help.Thanks,Mike.

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Name:  mike
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  13-Dec-03

Hi,I have korg dx 5,in each octive the C D and E keys are working all the rest are dead,can you help.Thanks,Mike.

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Name:  Dave Ell
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Date:  26-Jan-04

Any tips for the juno 106?

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Name:  paul
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  28-Feb-04

hi,

i saw your good article on synth repair and was wondering if you could help me. i have an electrix filter factory and when i do a sweep with the frequency knob the sweep isnt always smooth, sometimes the audible resonant frequency is different to what it should be (the audible frequency at about 11'oclock is sometimes like that at 1'oclock). do you think this could be solved by opening it up and giving the knobs a clean? was going to try but need to get the right allen key first.

thanks very much for any help you can give,
paul

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Name:  darren
Email: 
Website?:  google
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  23-Jan-05

my output jacks are not working!!
please help !!! i have a yamaha sy35

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Name:  lagbottom
Email: 
Website?:  synthmods.com
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  21-Mar-05

This was an inpirational read thanks I have a bunch
of 106s I ve been messing around with changing
leds etc , Its nice to find someone in the same head
. . .

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Name:  Henrik
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  30-May-05

There are 3 keys on my Roland D50 that always
response with full velocity, they are next to each
other. Is there a simple way to fix it?

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Name:  Eli
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  10-Jun-05

Hello,
I'm writing to inquier about VCO's for Juno
106's. Can you help me find some.
Thanks
Eli

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Name:  Joe Morrow
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  23-Jun-05

i have a speak and spell that i want repair and it is having trouble. it will turn on for a moment and then it will make some random noises and turn off. i have no idea what's going on with it...but i would love some help. all the soldering points and circuits seem to be in good shape...lemme know

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Name:  ganesh
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Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  31-Aug-05

when we power on the recorder it's give msg. no drive of no disk ?

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Name:  Paul
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Website?:  n/a
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  14-Sep-05

I have an arp odyssey which has an intermittent fault with the VCA slider. When it is fully down I get no tone but when it is up it feeds back and is useless. This comes and goes so sometime it works while down other times(most of the time) it is as mentioned above. Could this be something simple that can be easily repaired?

Thanks in advance
Paul

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Name:  Will
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  09-Oct-05

Hi,
I have a Roland SH101 which has always been reliable until the other day when it went quiet. I can hardly hear it but what I can hear is that everything that should be working is except the sequencer and arp section.Any help or theories would be a great help.
Thanks

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Name:  benny
Email: 
Website?:  www.pestmusic.com
Activity:  Professional
Date:  13-Oct-05

hi there, i've just bookmarked this page coz it looks really useful!
basically iv just bought a cz1000 on the cheap knowing that the two bottom c# & d# are flopped down and dont appear to have a spring connected to them or sound a note.. but it would be nice to get them working, if you can help i'd be eternally grateful. thanks!

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Name:  fancy
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  02-Nov-05

Small pedantic point:
Just replacing a dead voice on my Juno-106 as I write this. On mine the voices go from right to left (i.e. from 6 to 1, L-R) .

Also, the 106 (and many other synths) have a test mode. On the 106, you just power up with the "Key Transpose" button held down. To find which voice is dead in test mode, press "Poly 1" and "Poly 2" together, so both buttons light up. This assigns notes to the 6 voices in strict rotation. Now press a key repeatedly. The numbers 1-6 will appear in the display, corresponding to each voice. If no sound or a wierd sound comes out of one of the voices, it needs work!

Older synths are usually easier (e.g. Korg polysix, poly-61, Roland Juno-6 or 60, Prophet 5) because with the lid up you can see a diode light up on the voice being played.

Anyway, great info page, guys.

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Name:  Rob
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  08-Nov-05

Hi,
I noticed another comment regarding non-functioning outputs on Yamaha SY35. I have the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. (output to headphones works fine as does midi output)

Thanks Rob

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Name:  Dan Evans
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  08-Nov-05

Hi, I just opened my Korg MS2000 to fix two keys, one of which only worked some of the time, the other of which was completely dead. I was able to fix these, but now I've put the thing back together the very bottom keys do weird things like cycle through patches, go up and down octaves etc. all at once! This only affects the F (lowest note on an MS2k), F#, G and G#... all the other keys now work fine. If anyone has come across anything like this before, or has any idea how I can fix it, an email would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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Name:  Russ Sutton
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  25-Nov-05

Are any of the synthtech CEM's a crossover for the notorious 80017A chip failure in the Roland Juno 106. I can't seem to find a reasonably priced replacement. I am getting close to scavenging for a donor 106 with hopes of finding a good chip or 2 from it.

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Name:  Len
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  01-Dec-05

I took the underside of my U20 off and simply cannot get the top cover off. Do I have to remove all of the boards from the inside to get to the keys/hammers? I have 5 keys that have gone dead. Thanks.

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Name:  louise
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  18-Dec-05

am looking into buying a secondhand casio lk60 for my 12 yr old son, it has 2 broken keys so was trying to find out roughly how much an possibility of repair? am quite handy (even for a female) and good at unscrewing bits n working it out? would i be able to order these from somewhere and maybe repair these myself? if not do you think it wiould be an expensive sort of thing?

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Name:  matthew
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  29-Dec-05

hi,
i have a Roland SH-101. The keyboard wil only play one tone, everything else works. Do you have any suggestions as to how i mayh get working again. Thanks in advance.

matthew

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Name:  Shoukry
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  22-Jan-06

Greetings,
All of a sudden my Korg O1/W is emmiting pure white noise (hissing)? Display works fine... Any leads or info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Shooks
montreal

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Name:  eric coleridge
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  22-Jan-06

I recently plugged the wrong adapter into my sh 101. Before I realized what I had done, my synth fizzed out. First, the keyboard played all the same note, then the osc stopped entirely, then in just fizzed out; the light went out. this wa all in the course of about 10 seconds. when I looked at the adapter (in tears) I realized that I had plugged in a 9v 700ma adapter instead of the 12v 350ma adapter. How bad is my damage?
I'm waiting in terror for an answer.

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Name:  Roger McGuire
Email: 
Website?:  www.geocities.com/emeraldfolk
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  24-Jan-06

I have a yamaha ry 10 rythm machine. The footswitch jack input seems to have gone dead. Any ideas??

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Name:  Filipe Galante
Email: 
Website?:  www.pixel82.com
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  25-Jan-06

Hi!
I have a roland sh-101 and recently in a gig I dropped some beer on it - not that much though. Anyway 3 keys stoped working - I opened up and cleaned it with lots of care. Evrithing works now, it plays as before, but when I plug in my kenton midi cv in de gate and cv in the notes seems to be always manipulated by the lfo, without me doing that. I wonder if you can help me - I´v opened up again and cleaned the cv gate jack and still nothing. Please please if you can help me since I dont have the cash to fix this and its mt my main synth. Thanks a million

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Name:  gatry
Email: 
Website?:  www.thedarkworldproject.com
Activity:  Professional
Date:  23-Apr-06

Could u please email me with an answer if u can! My Juno 6 is playing up-one key doesn't work and this randomly occurs up and down the keyboard(not the same key)! any ideas?
gary

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Name:  Rob Nicholls
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  27-Apr-06

my juno 60 patches only give off a swirly air sound
and the writing/memory does not work. I changed the
battery and that just erased the previous patches
leaving me with the airy sound in every patch. How
can I fix this myself.

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Name:  me
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  22-Jun-06

Why are there absolutely no response that i see to any posts?
Also , i appreciate your web page but i wish you would explain how to trace through a circuit to find bad parts.I already know all the other troubleshooting techniques you spoke of.Thanks.

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Name:  Normann Aa. Nielsen
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  02-Jul-06

Could you give a hint of what could be broken when obviously the VCO in my SH-101 doesn't work?

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Name:  Richard day
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  06-Oct-06

Hi, I've purchased a Roland SH101 for a good price from japan but it has a couple of problems. As soon as you plug in the synth you get a constant base hum. It's not a 50hz mains hum though, it sounds higher pitched and built up of more than one frequency. I would really appriciate any help in this matter!! Also the synth tend to drift out of tune, i understand this is a common problem but any methods of fixing would be great.
Thanks,
Rich

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Name:  steve
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  16-Oct-06

I have a Roland SH101. I use a Kenton MIDI/CV convertor to play in pre-programmed patterns, but when the notes tend to be short and quick, my 101's Key Transpose function sporadically lights up and throws my notes up to its top octaves. It does this very unpredictably, and is incredibly infuriating when my song relies on a nice, low 101 sound. Opening the envelope's sustain can sometimes help but if the pattern is in sixteenths there tends to be very little to stop it's analogue brain transposing them up to a single high note. Help!

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Name:  j
Email: 
Website?:  n/a
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  01-Dec-06

my juno 60 won't retain any newly saved patch
memory once it's been powered off.
i know that the battery is not dead because it retains a
full bank of patches.
i just can't save any new ones unless i leave the synth
powered on.
how can i fix this?

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Name:  sat
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  03-Jan-07

Hi my Roland 606 keeps on buzzing when i
turn up the volume, do you reckon you might
know what it is??

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Name:  Ryan Melanson
Email: 
Website?:  www.myspace.com/thespacedhaitians
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  08-Jan-07

I have a Korg MS2000. for some time, when I plug in the ac jack, I have to put tremendous tension on the cord, pull it up, the duct tape it with thte tension to get power. No I feel that the jack has sunken in to far into the synth for me to even come close to getting power. I have taken electronics, and have some soldering ability. What do I have to do to fix this ac jack on the synth?...How hard is it?....Right now, the unit is officially dead other than this!!...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Name:  Gregg
Email: 
Website?:  n/a
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  08-Feb-07

I have a juno 60 that a few keys go dead. It is random, not the same keys. Sometimes they all work but once i start messing around with all the knobs they randomly fail. You can hear a really faint tone when you hold it down. Any ideas?

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Name:  Steve
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  19-Feb-07

> pots have 2 ratings..
> the ohm-resistance value, ie. 10k, 5m
> and the wattage rating...
Actually they have another rating that describes the linearity or resistance change when turning the knob:
A-type (linear)
B-type (logarithmic, e.g. used for volume pots) and
C-type ("antilog", often used in parametric EQ's for frequency adjustment)
C-type pots are hard to find and usually only available to manufacturers.
A solution may be to find one of those pots with carbon plates facing each other, and simply swapping them (requires disassembly of the pot), or finding a B-type pot that has a long or extensible axis on its rear side and mount it "upside-down".
Regards - Steve.

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Name:  Ronnie Kennedy
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  20-Mar-07

How do I repair the touch sensitive on my roland D50 Ther are some notes sound louder than others

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Name:  Frankie
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  28-May-07

I just purchased a Casiotone 401 keyboard from a
swap-meet that does not put out sound. Powers up
fine, all lights work. I opened & cleaned all the
dust,fuzz balls,hair clip,coin change. Noticed a
blown fuse.I replaced it, it blew again,& again &
again...what,where should I be testing?
Thanks,if anyone is actually reading this? Would
be great to read some help/trouble shoot ideas...

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Name:  John
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  11-Jun-07

Brought a sh-101 a while back, everything has been fine but the Pitch bend has become slightly wobbly, is this an easy fix if i open up and repair its housing?

Many thanks.

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Name:  Andy C
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  17-Jun-07

I have a Jen Synth Tone SX1000. I've owned it for some years, and all was well until recently. I took it out of storage to find the the synth playing the same 1 note at the same pitch regardless of what key I press. This only happens on octave setting 4. There is no sound at all on ocatve settings 32, 16, and 8!!!
Any ideas??

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Name:  chris campos
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  29-Jun-07

hey, i have a korg MS2000 and the input jack to the ac adaptor is very sensitive. it constantly turns the power on and off. is there any way i can fix this myself? i hope this isnt too stupid of a question, ha

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Name:  Marke
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  17-Jul-07

I have a Juno106 with a loose AC adapter inside. It's been secured but the two wires still need to be soldered back to their prospective connections. I need to know what wires go from-to-where on the board so I don't fry the synth. Any tech specs or diagrams showing this would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

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Name:  mel
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  31-Aug-07

hi,
i just recently bought a novation supernova. it does not turn on until 30 minutes after i power it up. do you have any idea what could be the problem?

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Name:  Matt
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  08-Sep-07

Hi i have a Roland super Jx-10 synth....The problem is that it does not produce any sound..buttons and power seem fine...i opend it up and nothing seems damaged......i just need the Midi working.....when using the synth for a midi controller it is recognized when i push the keys but does not give me sound.....i know its the synth becaus i hav no other problems with other keyboards

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Name:  Gary Burns
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  08-Sep-07

I ahve a JUNO-6 that will not make any sound, wheteher in the mono jack or stereo jack. Opened it up and do not see any obvious signs of damage. Any advice you can give me or a direction to steer me in to solve the problem?
Thanks in advance.
Sincerely Gary Burns

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Name:  Robin Rose
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  16-Oct-07

DIY I was hoping you could suggest a good grease to use on sliders on an ARP ODYSSEY II. I am restoring mine and have run into a real problem with the old grease turning hard and almost like glue. I have cleaned the sliders but am waiting to apply the grease,as I want to avoid anything that can harm the plastic body of the slider. Thank you very much. Signed Robin Rose

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Name:  James Limborg
Email: 
Website?:  http://www.jameslimborg.com
Activity:  Professional
Date:  16-Oct-07

My ROLAND D-50 does not put out any audio/sound and the patch-bank and patch-number keys do not function... all other buttons seem to work. The display always displays I-11 (The 1st patch bank and number) and will not change. Was working fine yesterday. Now NO SOUND when I press the keyboard keys and the patch-bank and patch-number keys do not function.

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Name:  Alex Powell
Email: 
Website?:  www.myspace.com/djdirtyali
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  19-Oct-07

hey. i recently aquired an sh101. first it turned on but
no sound came out now it just wont turn on at all :
( any chance you could point me in the right direction
on how to fix it? cheers

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Name:  Neal
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  01-Nov-07

I have a Tascam PortaStudio 05, I just got it out after a few years, it looks like its in great condition, but I went to play a tape and there is just a motor humming, the play doesn't work, is something stuck?

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Name:  morph
Email: 
Website?:  www.myspace.com/transmogulation
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  07-Nov-07

hi, i have two problems with my korg ms2000 ... firstly, the tip of a 1/4" jack is stuck inside one of the main outputs ... can you suggest a method of getting it out without opening the synth up and that will not damage anything?
secondly, it has two dead keys ... i'm tempted to try and fix / clean them myself but a bit concerned about causing static damage, or is that not an issue if i'm just cleaning key contacts?
cheers!

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Name:  Dan
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  16-Nov-07

Hey here, thanks for the article! I've got a question that I was hoping you could answer. The subject is a Korg Polysix that I am looking into buying. The present owner has replaced the battery with two AA's, due to the common leakage problems. I've never heard of anyone replacing the battery with AA's. Isn't it usually a flat lithium? Is this okay?

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Name:  Dan
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  16-Nov-07

oops, sent the wrong email address above...this here's my real one.

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Name:  bobg
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  17-Nov-07

Have an old Roland Juno 2 with two broken black keys. Can anyone help me with how to remove them? Thanks.

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Name:  jf
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  20-Nov-07

Dear Rurik,

thank you so much for this article, may your steps be bathed in light for aeons...

truely yours,
jf

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Name:  Jon
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  29-Nov-07

I have a Roland D-50 with an "E" note that, when pushed, sounds out alot louder than the rest of the keys, and sometimes it won't sound immediately. Is there a way to turn the touch sensitivity off?

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Name:  Patrick
Email: 
Website?:  none
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  06-Dec-07

I have a ms2000B and was moving it and the power
cord yanked as I was readjusting the height of the
stand. the cord is fine, and the connection is loose,
any thoughts would be helpful, not under a warranty
anymore

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Name:  vincent presley
Email: 
Website?:  myspace.com/vincentpresley
Activity:  Professional
Date:  02-Jan-08

i have a moog rogue that was like new, however, one day a couple years ago a flood filled the synth with water. i tipped it upside down and a couple days later it worked fine. recently i had to get a part re-soldered and when it was opened up i found that the foamy black stuff between the circuit board and the top plate (with the knobs and sliders) had totally melted away all over everything. it was very sticky and gross. now, the cutoff slider is feeling pretty bad and worn out, like a metal on metal kind of scraping. i have sprayed some cleaner and electronic lubricant inside but want to know if there is something else i can do to get this synth as nice as it was. thanks.

vp

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Name:  dan
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  18-Jan-08

adding audio input to a funtion generator
any ideas id like to play my guitar thru it

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Name:  andy
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  22-Jan-08

hi how do i replace the keys on the keyboard thx

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Name:  andrew
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  07-Feb-08

trying to find some CEM3328 's any idea where i can find some .... I live in the UK ....; thanks for any help.....

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Name:  william brown
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  13-Mar-08

Hi, my name is William, i have a roland jx-305 groovesynth, the volume and the quatize pot were busted...so keyboard would short out. I just took it in for repair, they replaced the volume pot and the quatize pot...and charged me 230 dollars...but the keyboard still shorts out...any suggestion?
Thanks
William

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Name:  Tor
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  24-Apr-08

I have a Korg MS2000. for some time, when I plug in the ac jack, I have to put tremendous tension on the cord, pull it up, the duct tape it with the tension to get power. and now it wont turn on at all
.

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Name:  naveenmanuel
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  04-May-08

I have a Yamaha DX 11 and some of the keys doesnt work when i play. This is mainly with some of he keys in 1st and 5th octave. also some of the buttons too, these buttons need a bang inorder
to work.could you please suggest how to fix this prolem.

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Name:  jack
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  19-May-08

how to fix a stuck key on roland d50. when press on the key it have no sound

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Name:  Ross Scott-Buccleuch
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  27-Jun-08

Hi,

I bought a casiotone mt-65 second recently and it doesn't seem to work.
The first octave or chord section plays perfectly through the output, though it is just the typical 'organ' sound. However, none of the voices seem to work. I can hear them very very faintly through the output but that's all I can get. I can hear that it is changing sounds when I change voice but it's so incredibly quiet.
Where should I start to investigate?
Maybe one of the internal amplifiers has gone?
It's clearly not the jack output as the chord section plays fine.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

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Name:  the80skid
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  19-Jul-08

thanks for your expertise. i would like to know how to
fix my pitch bend wheel on my rhodes (roland) mk-
80. thanks.

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Name:  desoto
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  28-Jul-08

Any suggestions on how to repair a broken pitch bender?

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Name:  Steve
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  25-Aug-08

I have problem with my juno 106. After it warm up for while,when I hit a note,the attack on the note will be way off the original setting.And the wird thing is,it happens on random notes or keys I should say.And those keys keep changing.Like not always the same key.And it may be one or several.Got any ideas? Thanks, Steve

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Name:  Levi
Email: 
Website?:  http://www.myspace.com
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  24-Oct-08

Considering a purchase of a malfunctioning korg ms2000. Hoping I might be able to fix it and get the synth a whole bunch cheaper. Haven't seen the device in person. I've been told it starts up ok and everything appears to work, except that no sound comes out. Owner says he was playing it one day and it just stopped making sound. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Name:  oneoff
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  05-Nov-08

hi there!
i have a problem with my alpah juno 2 ,
the synth get stuck when it's turned on
and its like the "operating system" of the synth
cant be loaded. all i see is 4 squers when i turn it on.
none of the controls are active when on.
i replaced the battery buy it's just the same.
please help!
thanks

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Name:  oneoff
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  05-Nov-08

hi there!
i have a problem with my alpah juno 2 ,
the synth get stuck when it's turned on
and its like the "operating system" of the synth
cant be loaded. all i see is 4 squers when i turn it on.
none of the controls are active when on.
i replaced the battery buy it's just the same.
please help!
thanks

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Name:  Sam Evans
Email: 
Website?:  no
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  07-Dec-08

Thank you so much. I have a Korg X5D and I had a dead key which is now working. Great stuff!

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Name:  saws
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  03-Jan-09

I have a Roland Juno 6 which will turn on, but I can't hear any sound when I plug it into an amplifier and play
the keys. I've made sure I have set the controls to produce some sort of audible output. What would the best
thing to do be? Thanks.

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Name:  Matt Harris
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  27-Jan-09

hi there,

I recently purchased one second hand in great condition, internally and ext.
The battery was dead, replaced easy enough though. However nothing on the damn thing works properly at
all!

I've transfered the factory pre-sets via the midi interface and have attempted to do this at least 30 times,
using different methods and followed practically every Korg m1 forum out there! All with the same
result......an awful sounding synth! Keys not responding, to blasting out a load of clipped audio all relatively
random. Which I know it's not meant to be. Also depending on the key velocity, the keys play different
patches/voices. :(

This has led me to believe that maybe it's a hardware problem. Which is not my forte at all.

The thing is I live on the Isle of Wight and I dont want to send it off anywhere, and have it sent back as
there is nothing wrong with it.

Let me know what you think or suggestions are very much appreciated.

Yours
Matt

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Name:  hahaha
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  22-Feb-09

all you people with problems are funny.. this is just the comments of the article not ask whats wrong with your synth. Im amazed how many people posted their problems, even after seeing that the author wont respond to your problems.

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Name:  admin
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  23-Feb-09

yes, add QUESTIONS to the forums please... we dont answer questions on the comments section of articles.

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Name:  Paul Binns
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  23-Mar-09

Very nice article with just the right amount of technicality (not overwhelming). Although I have built many electronic circuits and done numerous repairs, I have picked up several tips that will make future projects easier.

Thanks for this great article!!

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Name:  dwain c
Email: 
Website?:  none
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  30-Apr-09

I have an MS2000B synth, Korg. And I have taken all the screws from sides and front out, all the knobs off, but I can't seem to open it all the way, it looks like it is stuck around the 2 tone wheels. Do you have to take the bottom screws out also. The socket where the wall plug goes into isn't working and there is no power to the keyboard. I also see the whole MIDI unit is hooked to the socket, but I can't get the top plate all the way off to get a good view inside. I've been looking for some kind of repair manual on the web, but can't seem to find one. Thanks. Help appreciated.

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Name:  steven
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  21-Sep-09

I need a wiring diagram for a ms200b korg, if anyones got one. None online. email me if you find one or have the wiring diagram. Or maybe a new power switch. thank you

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Name:  steven
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  21-Sep-09

I ment a ms2000b korg. sorry. I need a wiring diagram for it or a new power switch

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Name:  dan h
Email: 
Website?:  www.override.org
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  11-Feb-10

re: fixing knobs, sliders, buttons etc ->"scrape it off gently, taking care not to bend or deform the part.. "

one should never ever scrape anything to clean it. you're likely to reduce the life of the contact by doing so. the best way to clean corrosion or dirt/dust is with a pink rubber eraser, or in some cases with isopropyl alcohol.

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Name:  CJ
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  31-Aug-10

I have an ensoniq ESQ1 (I know - ancient synth) - it has one cracked key and need to know how to fix it - anyone have suggestions?
Thanks - I'm not any type of techy and would usually never venture to open something like this up... so thanks for any help.

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Name:  Vangelis
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  09-Nov-10

I have a ROLAND JUNO 2 pitchbend is not working at all any suggestions at what to look for?

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Name:  scott
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  03-Jan-11

I plugged a 12v adapter into my korg ms2000 and before I noticed it was to late and I smelled burnt,the power comes on but it dosent load up just a blank green screen,I called a shop and they want $80 just to diagnose it and if its not fixable they keep the $80 any advice would be appriciated

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Name:  gerard silverio
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  09-May-11

my korg x5dsr just died. no power. can i fix it? How to check/open?

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Name:  TwoName Jenkins
Email: 
Website?:  http://theyesyesyalls.com
Activity:  Professional
Date:  31-May-11

hit me up with Juno questions... crenne@gmail.com

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Name:  José Pereira
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  29-Aug-11

Hello.
Very nice article.
Can someone, please, point me to a supplier of slider pots for Roland D-50?
Best regards.
José
Portugal

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Name:  Nick
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  23-Oct-11

Hello there.

Just bought a secondhand Roland Fantom XR.

When I plugged 2 balanced jacks into the A outputs
the right channel cancels out the left; until I pull
the right jack out a little which then plays out on supposedly
both channels; I say this as when I pan from cubase the left channel
fades to nothing and the right remains in stereo.

When listening from the headphones output stereo works and I canpan
from left to right.

Would you mind giving me some advice as I feel a plonk spending nearly
£600 on this. No disrespect to mono lovers out there. I thought I was
paying for a choice.

Thanks for your time.

Nick

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Name:  Vladislav
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  08-Dec-11

Greetings
Maybe the "rubber contacts and contact circuit board" from Korg Pa80 use to Korg Pa800 ? They are interchangeable?
Thank you.

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Name:  Dave
Email: 
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  02-Jan-12

Hi anyone,

I've got a Roland D10 and was trying to use it
recently. It was working for the first 20 mins. Then
it freezes, when switch it off and then on again, a
high pitch mixture of sound was the output, none of
the buttons, sliders work. Try to off and on a few
times, still the same. Turn it on the next day it was
back to normal, everything work, but only for 15 to
20 mins. and it freezes again with the dame
problem when switch it off and on.

What could the problem be? Can I fix this myself?
Any comment would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

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Name:  Wes
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  22-Jan-12

"I plugged a 12v adapter into my korg ms2000 and before I noticed it was to late and I smelled burnt,the power comes on but it dosent load up just a blank green screen,I called a shop and they want $80 just to diagnose it and if its not fixable they keep the $80 any advice would be appriciated"

This is a previous comment in which I have had the same problem, I was interested to know if this could be fixed as I also have had the same problem with the synth having the green screen and was wandering if this is a fixable problem?

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Name:  Waleed
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  26-Jan-12

I have a Korg TR61 synthesizer. I accidentally plugged the power supply in a 220v instead of 110v. I changed the power supply and fixed the -supposedly- protection fuse inside, however it's still not working, can you please advice what can I do?

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Name:  Adam
Email: 
Website?:  soundcloud/rastabillyskank
Activity:  Hobby-ist
Date:  26-Feb-12

Hi all,
does anyone know which color order the ribbon cables in my ALpha Juno 2 go, the group of three that are situated under the keys.
I opened it up with the best intentions of cleaning the contacts and didnt make a note of the cables i was unplugging.
So i scrub the contacts, put the whole thing back together and there is no sound and there in no display on the LCD, powers up ok but totally unusable other than that.
Damn!

Please help - Adam

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Name:  Amy Fletcher
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  09-Mar-12

hi..
i have a big problem with my ms2000r. if you could please help me out..i tried the boards and forums but cant find a solution..and no im not a ditsy girl lol..here goes..

for the last few months, i noticed that it takes loner and longer to switch between the sounds..then some sounds wouldnt play at all..
today,while in the middle of recording a track,my friend pressed something and now nothing works.
it turns on, and i can scroll through the diffrernt sounds+menus, but midi isnt registering and no sound comes out of the 1-16 buttons work if i press the keyboard button on the left (out of the outs or headphone port)..

i tried the firmware upgrade and am now running 1.7 (though it says 07 on the screen) i think..
i did the menu->2d->global/program reset and still nothing..
i did the re init: hold mod key+3..it scrolls through the menus, then freezes on midi and says something like "midi loop error"..no sound comes out of the outs, but a sound like a layered midi time code comes out of the headphone port..

my setup is: m-audio keys->motu microlite->2000r midi in->2000r midi out->microlite..via protools 6.9 on xp quad 4gb ram..

thankyou so much in advance...:)

I decided to experiment and see about the "MIDI loop check error". I connected the MIDI in and out together. I ran the on+modkey+3..
The test started up..
1.Dsp Dram Check (passed I guess),
2.Midi Loop Check - Started with noise then passed I guess
3.Then for a very short time, a blank screen came up.
4.SW & LED test all led on. All the lLEDs lit up because I pressed the cursor button and the next menu was,
5.Sys Rom check
6.SW&LED test Audio In1 (I patched cd out (patchbay) into Audio In1 and sound came through left channel after turning Audio1 pot up-headphone out), then I pressed the cursor button and the next menu was
7.Same for Audio In2..Right channel though. I pressed the cursor button and the next menu was
8.Then the Osc1, Osc2 etc..

I think this testing is a program based "self check" diagnosis to see where a problem might be.

Now I am stuck at SW&LED test..21 arp ran (tempo pot). I turned the pot left to right fully, and the red light stays on.

Any ideas? At least this might be some kind of indicator.

Also I recorded the sound during the MIDI loop test. Caution: It's a high pitched and loud..rapidshare(dot)com/files/3058819297/MS2000R_Sound.mp3)

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Name:  admin
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  09-Mar-12

ask on our forums please for help like this. Maybe we can help.

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Name:  Ben
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  13-Mar-12

I have recently opened up a damaged Novation X-Station 25 after the manufacturers sent me 2 parts - a fader and a pot. I desoldered both, though I seem to have lifted the pads off, and can't get the rotary pot to work. I need to find a solution to this as I don't wish to damage it further or write it off. I'd like some advice on how to reconnect the circuitry / what to do in order to replace the pads.
Many thanks - Ben, UK

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Name:  Craig
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  11-Apr-12

Hello
I have a Roland SH101, which has been working fine since the late 1980's. However now, for some unknown reason, it doesnt even power on. Why would it do that? to be fair I hadnt played it for maybe a year.
Do you think it is a serious problem or can it be fixed for a reasonable price.

Many thanks

Craig

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Name:  stef
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  06-May-12

If you still need the Service manual write me

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Name:  fjbb
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  02-Nov-12

About 100
questions in the
comments, half of
them hasty, yet all
seriusly, expect to
have them
answered. The
author obviously
meant to answer
questions with the
article fyi.

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Name:  DIMITRIS
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  10-Nov-12

Hi I ve got a roland system 100m. Today the red light on the first vcf module 121 lit and the filter is off. No sound is passing through.
any suggestions?

cheers

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Name:  Keith
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  20-Dec-12

I have had the same problem with my 01W, but only when the unit is cold,
like below 50F. I have confirmed this to be the case. Any ideas are
certainly appreciated.

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Name:  vidar
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  15-Feb-13

Greatarticle! Really understandable. I do miss some pictures though . that would be great! Searched for
something exactly like this when opening up my yamaha sk20. Hopefully it's clean and wonderful after a bit of
service... :)

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Name:  Erik
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  15-Apr-13

Great article!

I have a bit 99 that has a fuzzy sound whenever any key is pressed. I have experience soldering and a decent
grasp of electronics but haven't really dealt with analog circuits. I am taking a class in Semiconductor and
Electronic Devices so I'm learning about oscillators, op-amps and all that fun stuff.

I'm thinking its probably a IC or transistor somewhere going into saturation in an amplifier or possible a
resistor in the amplifying circuit thats not allowing proper feedback. Correct me if I'm wrong just applying what
I am learning.

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Name:  Fruitsnake
Email: 
Website?:  ade2016.wix.com/fruitsnakebends
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  30-Apr-13

Hopefully this will be helpful to someone who owns a Yamaha SY35... A common problem on the SY35, and
possibly also on the TG33 and SY22, is that the main stereo outs will be broken (no signal) while the headphone
out is still working. In this case, what has happened is that there is a relay "RY1" that is supposed to activate
the main outs a second or so after the power is turned on, but the transistor "TR4" is faulty, so the relay never
switches from ground to hot. You can fix this by either replacing the transistor or by bypassing the relay
entirely using jumpers, which is my preferred solution. All you have to do is connect two jumpers (one for L and
one for R) to the legs of the two "22/16" capacitors that are running to "RY1" (you can follow the tracers to see
which leg is connected to the relay, that's the leg you're looking for). Then stick the other end of those jumpers
through the two empty holes in the PCB that are connected to a pair of 680ohm resistors that are right next to
the stereo outs (they also connect to "RY1" a little further down). Before you solder them in, make sure that you
cris-crossed the jumpers; the lefthand capacitor connects to the hole on the right and vice-versa, otherwise
your stereo image will be messed up. Finally, cut the two 2.2Kohm resistors that connect "RY1" to ground. Now
the relay is no longer in the circuit and your outputs should be working perfectly.

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Name:  Patrick Thompson
Email: 
Activity:  Professional
Date:  04-Jun-13

Hi just came across your forum.. I have a Korg MS2000 and I recently noticed that some of the voices are not responding correctly.. They do not sound like they used to. I have at least 10 to 12 of the voices that give off more noise than usual the voices have like a radio distortion sound intermixed with the voice and the original voice is more in the background... Is this simply an issue over the internal battery is getting weak or is the machine dying? Any help would be wonderful... Thanks.. P

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Name:  ROB H.
Email: 
Website?:  https://soundcloud.com/colfaxspeedqueen
Activity:  Professional
Date:  18-Jul-13

I have a DX21, recently i have had a problem with VOLUME OUTPUT. During
rehearsal the DX went from normal volume to almost none at all. I do get
power, sound, everything works like normal except the volume isn't pumping
out like it was before. I have repleaced interbnal battery, cleaned pots,
looked inside for anything burnt out, and NOTHING likes out of place. ANY
SUGGESTS AND/OR HELP WOULD BE AWESOME!!!!

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Name:  Chris
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  24-Dec-14

Hi, have u found a solution? i have the same problem with my ms-20??

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Name:  Darcy
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  04-Jul-15

Please help! I have a EG101, which briefly comes on with a zero on the display then goes off.
I've check the voltages on the pay board and the internal amplifier is working. I have 5V going through the main board to
all the ic's.

Can't see or find anything crowbaring the supply rails. So I'm kind of stuck.
Would really like to get this thing going again.

Many thanks.

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Last added comment

Name:  Carl Brown
Email: 
Activity:  part-timer
Date:  02-Aug-15

Recently bought an old roland jx-3p at an auction and guess what? It doesn't work. Powers up and leds work as they should. Voltages at power supply are good as well as fuses. Voltage at VRO is 4.7 just like manual says. Running out of things to look at. Should the 2 leds on the motherboard be on? Anything else I can test?

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