Plans to build a 15" bass scoop rear horn-loaded cabinet for playing out
A 15" bass-scoop rear horn-loaded cabinet ideal for club and party systems.... A couple of these with top flyers will be ok for small club/bar!
Here's a rear horn loaded bass scoop-bin... NOT easy to build, so get a wood-freindly mate to help. Preferably, get the woodyard to cut the parts to the plan.
Use tha pair of these with any stereo power amp up to 500 watts per channel...but ease the volume in huh!... dont blow the things up!
You can build another pair, and add them together with the first pair for more power.
I was in a small club recently... about 800 sq ft with a low ceiling, and they had 2 of these, with 4 mid/treble flyers up on the walls....... It was nice and loud....
Cut out the side panels first... Lay one out flat, and draw out the plan on that, and use it as a guide.... Make sure all the Mitreing (angled joints) are well cut and accurate....
On the plan... fixed to the underside of the curved panel, is what looks like a small square... This is a length of planed baton of say 1-1/2" - 2" square which is fixed between the 2 side panels, and supports the curved sheet.
The entire cabinet opening has a planed hardwood baton all around the side and bottom inside-edge of the opening... The bottom baton will support the bottom of the curved sheet when you drop it into place... The sides of the curved sheet must be flush with the inner-cabinet side panels....in other words....cut it with perfect 90 degree corners.
Ok.. once you've marked out the side panel(s) as a guide, created all the inner baffles and their bracing struts (where added)...and put the sides, top and bottom together... leave the curved sheet till last.....
Now... get the first ply sheet, screw & glue the supporting baton to it right across it's centre line, so the baton ends are flush with the edges of the ply sheet
This curved sheet is dropped into place, with the bottom edge mating with the cabinet opening, bottom-edge baton that runs along the inner bottom edge of the opening... The top edge is glued and tacked to the inner back panel, on the drawn line where it should meet.... creating a curve... Put lots of PVA glue on the sheet edges.... tack the top and bottom edges... the sides will be fixed by the glue.
Ok.... if possible, once the first curved sheet is in place, screw through from the outside of the cabinet side-panels into the curved sheet-supporting-baton ends that meet with the cabinet inner sides....(the baton that runs across the center of the curved sheet)... Now... when it's all dried (the next day)... add the second sheet to create a strong laminate (layered sheet).
OK... The first sheet is in place and fixed... OK to create the laminate, you need a different glue... Unibond or Evostick...(the glue that gets you high !!)... the second sheet should be the exact correct size as the first... cover the first sheet with a THIN layer of glue (thin means thin ok !!)........ cover the second sheet with a thin layer.... wait until they are tacky... then drop in the second sheet..... line up the upper edge... and smooth it down over the first sheet...Get it lined up right, cos once the glue sticks you're roayaly screwed!... However, the inner cabinet sides will guide it into place ok... just take care!
Once it's dry...(about 1 hour), smear some PVA glue around the edges where the curved sheet meets the cabinet panels... let that dry... and you'll have a nice solid curved panel.
Right... also on the plan, in the XX-Section, is something marked "BRACING STRUTS"... these are right on the vertical center line, and are made from the 3/4" sheet... There are 2 pieces.....and they mate with, and support, the 2 largest inner baffles... adding support to the center-line of these baffles.
Best bet, is to cut all the inner baffle sheets, and lay them out standing up on one of the side panels you have marked out.... Cut the Brace as a single piece, then lay the inner baffles over it at the correct angles... then mark it across the center, and cut it in half (cutting out a thin slice, exactly the width of the 3/4 inc baffle that it will mate with)... use lots of woodglue (PVA) on the edges when putting it all together.
All in all, check it out, and good luck!
LOUDSPEAKERS | 15" BASS |
PERFORMANCE | From between 40-50 Hz to 5 KHz at a sensitivity within the range 97db to 104db for 1 watt, 1 metre depending on speaker model selected. Good bass with good mid-band coverage |
CONSTRUCTION | Fairly complexed. Mark out the side panels as section XX (see plan) to aid assembly. The panels need mitreing accurately. The curved panel is made by laminating 2 thin sheets in the final position. |
MATERIALS | 1 1/2 sheets of 18mm, 3/4", 8' X 4' board (2438 X 1219) 2 X 37.5" X 24" of 3mm (1/8th") plyboard for curved panel |
VOLUME | Total= 8800 cubic inches Reflex= 6650 cubic inches, 106 litres |
[plans will print out to an A4 page]
(very important to read this !!)
Good luck & happy building!
I WANT SOME SALE ME SOME GET BACK TO ME
test add comment to '15 single scoop cab' page
I own four of these in the 18" version loaded with celestian 1,600 watt subwoofers. These have outperformed every other sub design I have had to compete against, these also have the longest life span when compared to the AS&T version of these scoops. I have owned a few of the factory AS&T scoops but they have since rattled apart when considering the fact that I built these Fane scoops back in the late 80's & that they are still going strong today you can see why they have such a high rating in my book.
i can use a plan board instad of the curve board ?
Do U have any plans for 18" scoop rear horn loaded cabinets?
chris ( these plans are incorect)
cjcjcj70@hotmail.com
Professional
Date: 29-Dec-05
recenty finished building 2 of these cabs. really easy and quick to build ( with the right tools and knowledge). these cabs do the job very well but the 18" design from speakerplans.com are far more efficiant. but 18s are much larger and hevey to work on and have more mitre cuts.
The plans are a bit vaque on angles and dimensions. and as i was machining, i noticed that the plans are incorect- the dimensions of the front baffle are out of proportion to the size of the driver. if these dimensions are followed then the angle of the first mitre under the baffle will change. i had to improvise and make part of it up as i went along. If any one is serious about building these, then email me and i can discuss the construction in further detail
dj cliff (from South .Afrika)
dj.cliff@yahoo.com
Hobby-ist
Date: 29-Aug-06
Thanks for this supa powerful website I must say I've Designed a number of BassBins using this site as reference and it helped me lot!! keep up the Good work! hwo ever u r!
regards Dj Cliff
DJ FITZ- TSUNAMI SOUNDS [NASSAU,BAHAMAS]
callio_36@hotmail.com
Hobby-ist
Date: 05-Nov-06
SO WHAT WILL THE COST BE TO BUILD TWO OF THESE BOYS WITH A PAIR OF 18 INCH SPEAKERS TO FILL EM'
testing...1.....2......3......If you can get to grips with the plan, a great bass-bin for small clubs and other venues.....
I attended a drum & bass night where there was four of
these bins, it was damn loud! However, these were 18"
versions, and I am very interested in building my own.
Could you or anyone send me plans, or send me in the
right direction on how to build an 18" version. The
speakers I have given the most consideration are the
Celestion BX18 600w 30-300hz, do you think this would
be good? Also if I were to build the 15" version, would
you recommend the 15" version of the above speaker?
Thanks for reading. Wicked cab.
ok the way to make the curved pieces is gey a sheet of 1/4" good one side plywood and cut it the rewuired 37.5" x22", get the yard to cut it, then, fill your bathtub up half way with hot water, and fill ALL the pots in your house with boiling water. Place the 22" side against the wall on top of the tub so the 37 " side faces you, Get-6 bricks ready before the water boils. SOAK the ply in the tub for 30 minutes+, then place it on top as described. put the bricks on the wood, evenly spaced, ald pour boiling water over the top of the wood. slowlt push it down into the tub until itit is IN. An average tub is 30 inches wide, PERFECT. Let it sit there for a few minutes then place it in the Jig you made earlier to hold it in this shape overnight while it dries. (JIG: plywood with 2 pieces of batton 30" apart to hold curve.) presto, 2 1/2" pieces per cabinet and your done.
I have had very good luck with double 15's and double 18's. JBL drivers and Gauss work well. Remember, above 150 Hz the drivers in this cabinet act like direct radiators. I typically cross over no higher than 250 Hz. This enclosure works well with 12dB and 18dB per octive x-overs.
I'm almost done building 4 of these cabs so I'l share my experience with anyone who might want to make them,Keep in mind all the numbers are for four cabs, so divide if you'r not making four. I decide to make them in march 2001, spring break project, yeah right. Here's the list of materials I've bought: (home depot)
5 sheets of 5/8" MDF, cut to spec, all cuts ended up 1/4 to 1/2 inch off, great...
8 casters
1 gallon black 'melamine' paint and 1 gallon primer
32 t-nuts, and matching bolts
1 gallon of contact cement (WRONG, buy spray adhesive)
8 cand spray adhesive
Pounds of bulk screws
2 bottles of Lepage wood glue
(Bought from speakerhole.com)
32 plastic corners, which break if you don't ease the cab down slowly
4 15" grills and clamps
4 Jack plates and 1/4" connectors
150' roll of black carpet, sent me grey...
8 metal handles
So this is all I can remember for now, but there is much more.. In all I've spent 1500 (canadian, 1000 USD) dollers on materials and I don't even have the drivers yet..
So I put the cabs together, with difficulty along the way, and now just have to put the scoop in and recarpet them. What the hell, though, They look deadly, painted black inside and grey out, handles, corners, grill, four beautys all lined up. I can't wait to put a few thousant watts into them and get that long awaited massage....
cool site
BUT where do you get drive units from?
been to the jbl pro site (www.jblpro.com) & learnt....er...NOTHING!!!
can you help?
Just what I've been looking for.
I have a 4 of Eminence's 8" 100w Mids. What would be the best position for them and should I incorporate them into my main speakers (15" main driver, Rectangular mid horn, Piezo Tweeter)? Could I do this by by chucking out the horn and piezo, and building a new baffle with cut out for the mids?
Any information would be a great help.
p.s I have a 4 ohm stable 2x 300w/channel amp.
testing...1.....2......3......If you can get to grips with the plan, a great bass-bin for small clubs and other venues.....
which section of the box do you use to calculate the volume for scoop box design.
chris ( these plans are incorect)
cjcjcj70@hotmail.com
Professional
Date: 29-Dec-05
recenty finished building 2 of these cabs. really easy and quick to build ( with the right tools and knowledge). these cabs do the job very well but the 18" design from speakerplans.com are far more efficiant. but 18s are much larger and hevey to work on and have more mitre cuts.
The plans are a bit vaque on angles and dimensions. and as i was machining, i noticed that the plans are incorect- the dimensions of the front baffle are out of proportion to the size of the driver. if these dimensions are followed then the angle of the first mitre under the baffle will change. i had to improvise and make part of it up as i went along. If any one is serious about building these, then email me and i can discuss the construction in further detail
dj cliff (from South .Afrika)
dj.cliff@yahoo.com
Hobby-ist
Date: 29-Aug-06
Thanks for this supa powerful website I must say I've Designed a number of BassBins using this site as reference and it helped me lot!! keep up the Good work! hwo ever u r!
regards Dj Cliff
DJ FITZ- TSUNAMI SOUNDS [NASSAU,BAHAMAS]
callio_36@hotmail.com
Hobby-ist
Date: 05-Nov-06
SO WHAT WILL THE COST BE TO BUILD TWO OF THESE BOYS WITH A PAIR OF 18 INCH SPEAKERS TO FILL EM'
Found this cool site while searching for horn cabinet designs - like "Voice of the Theater", to use at home with low power vacuum tube amps. Any comments on how this design would work for that application? Maybe with some Altec11 horns for mid/upper freqs. I have access to some Karlson cabinets - any info on those? Thanks!
to build an 18 inch version of the scoop cabinet you simply multiply all measurements by a factor of 1.2
I'm interested in making an 18" version of this 'bin,
could anyone give me advice on what changes would need
to be made to the cab design? I would like to use the
celtestion bx18 600w 30-300hz speakers, wise choice?
Built 2 separate 18" bass bins for a small club. They "rock the house".
If possible, use 1/2 inch "wacky wood" for the curved portion of the bin. Double
layer it. Cut out a curved 3/4" support for the curve and attatch it to the sides.
Nail, screw or staple the curve to the support. An air driven stapler really makes life easier.
Reinforce wherever you can. Happy trails.
I attended a drum & bass night where there was four of
these bins, it was damn loud! However, these were 18"
versions, and I am very interested in building my own.
Could you or anyone send me plans, or send me in the
right direction on how to build an 18" version. The
speakers I have given the most consideration are the
Celestion BX18 600w 30-300hz, do you think this would
be good? Also if I were to build the 15" version, would
you recommend the 15" version of the above speaker?
Thanks for reading. Wicked cab.
I'm interested in making an 18" version of this 'bin,
could anyone give me advice on what changes would need
to be made to the cab design? I would like to use the
celtestion bx18 600w 30-300hz speakers, wise choice?
I have had very good luck with double 15's and double 18's. JBL drivers and Gauss work well. Remember, above 150 Hz the drivers in this cabinet act like direct radiators. I typically cross over no higher than 250 Hz. This enclosure works well with 12dB and 18dB per octive x-overs.
I WANT SOME SALE ME SOME GET BACK TO ME
cool site
BUT where do you get drive units from?
been to the jbl pro site (www.jblpro.com) & learnt....er...NOTHING!!!
can you help?
Just what I've been looking for.
I have a 4 of Eminence's 8" 100w Mids. What would be the best position for them and should I incorporate them into my main speakers (15" main driver, Rectangular mid horn, Piezo Tweeter)? Could I do this by by chucking out the horn and piezo, and building a new baffle with cut out for the mids?
Any information would be a great help.
p.s I have a 4 ohm stable 2x 300w/channel amp.
which section of the box do you use to calculate the volume for scoop box design.
I have seen this cabinet and another version with two 18`s in each cabinet and both versions sound great!
Found this cool site while searching for horn cabinet designs - like "Voice of the Theater", to use at home with low power vacuum tube amps. Any comments on how this design would work for that application? Maybe with some Altec11 horns for mid/upper freqs. I have access to some Karlson cabinets - any info on those? Thanks!
Hi ,
I am looking for a company that supplies the protection grill with retaining clamps, normally used to protect the woofer in a bass cabinet.
Thanks
Regards
Gabrielli Mario
test add comment to '15 single scoop cab' page
I have seen this cabinet and another version with two 18`s in each cabinet and both versions sound great!
i got 1 pair of 2x15-32w 40h 24d.we call 'em sugarscoops or squatties. nice bass/midbass "chest-thump" mine are loaded with evms heavy assed cabs.need big casters. i got 1 pair of jbl 4520 cabs. real deal 20s.they been (fiber)glassed.2x15 2226.big bass more of a "groin-thump". speaking of groin,if you value yours, forget casters...get a fork truck 'cause a side by side refrigerator full of fullers weighs less.these are outside toys.
the jbl 4520 measure 48h 30d 36w .longer horn bigger mouth lower fh deeper bass practictly nonmovable. great sound, but if i try to copy i will build as-15 48x30x18 or7.5
The 15" driver from Parts Express (#295-080) works
quite well in a dual configuration. The 18" version
(also from Parts Express)(#295-085)provided excellent
results in a single driver configuration. Two layers
of 1/2" "wacky wood" glued together work well for the
curved scoop. Attach the first layer of the scoop to
a curved 3/4" form attached to the sides. Use liberal
amounts of glue and wipe off the excess. Attach a
second layer of wacky wood to the first layer with glue
and screws. Nail, screw or staple to the curved form.
Reinforce the scoop at the middle with a piece of 2"x2"
or 2"x4" (preferred). Happy trails.
I made a pair of these that I use now for music with "heavy bass" influence and I'm very impressed by the performance. In fact, I'm working on a second pair right now. When you compare the cost of making these($150/pr) to the performance you get. It's a win-win situation!!!
How would you SIZE up this cab for an 18" driver?
Well I built a pair of these, and loaded them with JBL 2226's. Holy hell. Talk about kick ass. I am going to build another pair for a bigger system.
These bins would have to be the best design for maximum bass output. I did however modify them slightly by cutting an angle on both top and bottom back corners and added wheels and handles.
Nice construction article on the 15" scoops. Would you have any information on upsizing these to 18" drivers? (plans, etc.). Also do you have any recommendations on driver brand for this project?
Thank you in advance!
i want to build these things!!! but i have a little problem...
or i build just 1 and use an eminence woofer of 200 watts RMS
or i build 2 of these animals and use ane eminence woofer of 100 watts RMS (per cabinet ofcourse)
1 question? is this enough?1*200 watts of 2*100 watts
what would i build (1 with 200 watt rms or 2 cabinets with 100 watt RMS each)????
is there a possibility to use 10" woofers???
greetings Dr.Dock
In reply to Dr DOC. I've got a pair of 15 inch scoop bass bins, with Eminence Beta 15 drivers in each rated 150w rms.
100w rms driver would be the lowest you could use for pa/disco.But as it's a bass bin,The lowest I suggest is Eminence Beta 15[150 w rms].
Most people use high wattage drivers in scoop bins to get that chest crushing bass. Either Eminence Delta pro,Eminence Kappa lf,Eminence Sigma pro,or Eminence Omega pro rated at 600w rms.
The best scoop bass bin I saw was a bin loaded with an 18 inch Eminence Kilomax rated 1000w rms [1kw]
to build an 18 inch version of the scoop cabinet you simply multiply all measurements by a factor of 1.2
I own four of these in the 18" version loaded with celestian 1,600 watt subwoofers. These have outperformed every other sub design I have had to compete against, these also have the longest life span when compared to the AS&T version of these scoops. I have owned a few of the factory AS&T scoops but they have since rattled apart when considering the fact that I built these Fane scoops back in the late 80's & that they are still going strong today you can see why they have such a high rating in my book.
How would you SIZE up this cab for an 18" driver?
Well I built a pair of these, and loaded them with JBL 2226's. Holy hell. Talk about kick ass. I am going to build another pair for a bigger system.
These bins would have to be the best design for maximum bass output. I did however modify them slightly by cutting an angle on both top and bottom back corners and added wheels and handles.
i want to build these things!!! but i have a little problem...
or i build just 1 and use an eminence woofer of 200 watts RMS
or i build 2 of these animals and use ane eminence woofer of 100 watts RMS (per cabinet ofcourse)
1 question? is this enough?1*200 watts of 2*100 watts
what would i build (1 with 200 watt rms or 2 cabinets with 100 watt RMS each)????
is there a possibility to use 10" woofers???
greetings Dr.Dock
In reply to Dr DOC. I've got a pair of 15 inch scoop bass bins, with Eminence Beta 15 drivers in each rated 150w rms.
100w rms driver would be the lowest you could use for pa/disco.But as it's a bass bin,The lowest I suggest is Eminence Beta 15[150 w rms].
Most people use high wattage drivers in scoop bins to get that chest crushing bass. Either Eminence Delta pro,Eminence Kappa lf,Eminence Sigma pro,or Eminence Omega pro rated at 600w rms.
The best scoop bass bin I saw was a bin loaded with an 18 inch Eminence Kilomax rated 1000w rms [1kw]
I'm almost done building 4 of these cabs so I'l share my experience with anyone who might want to make them,Keep in mind all the numbers are for four cabs, so divide if you'r not making four. I decide to make them in march 2001, spring break project, yeah right. Here's the list of materials I've bought: (home depot)
5 sheets of 5/8" MDF, cut to spec, all cuts ended up 1/4 to 1/2 inch off, great...
8 casters
1 gallon black 'melamine' paint and 1 gallon primer
32 t-nuts, and matching bolts
1 gallon of contact cement (WRONG, buy spray adhesive)
8 cand spray adhesive
Pounds of bulk screws
2 bottles of Lepage wood glue
(Bought from speakerhole.com)
32 plastic corners, which break if you don't ease the cab down slowly
4 15" grills and clamps
4 Jack plates and 1/4" connectors
150' roll of black carpet, sent me grey...
8 metal handles
So this is all I can remember for now, but there is much more.. In all I've spent 1500 (canadian, 1000 USD) dollers on materials and I don't even have the drivers yet..
So I put the cabs together, with difficulty along the way, and now just have to put the scoop in and recarpet them. What the hell, though, They look deadly, painted black inside and grey out, handles, corners, grill, four beautys all lined up. I can't wait to put a few thousant watts into them and get that long awaited massage....
I made a pair of these that I use now for music with "heavy bass" influence and I'm very impressed by the performance. In fact, I'm working on a second pair right now. When you compare the cost of making these($150/pr) to the performance you get. It's a win-win situation!!!
Hi ,
I am looking for a company that supplies the protection grill with retaining clamps, normally used to protect the woofer in a bass cabinet.
Thanks
Regards
Gabrielli Mario
Nice construction article on the 15" scoops. Would you have any information on upsizing these to 18" drivers? (plans, etc.). Also do you have any recommendations on driver brand for this project?
Thank you in advance!
i can use a plan board instad of the curve board ?
Do U have any plans for 18" scoop rear horn loaded cabinets?
Built 2 separate 18" bass bins for a small club. They "rock the house".
If possible, use 1/2 inch "wacky wood" for the curved portion of the bin. Double
layer it. Cut out a curved 3/4" support for the curve and attatch it to the sides.
Nail, screw or staple the curve to the support. An air driven stapler really makes life easier.
Reinforce wherever you can. Happy trails.
The 15" driver from Parts Express (#295-080) works
quite well in a dual configuration. The 18" version
(also from Parts Express)(#295-085)provided excellent
results in a single driver configuration. Two layers
of 1/2" "wacky wood" glued together work well for the
curved scoop. Attach the first layer of the scoop to
a curved 3/4" form attached to the sides. Use liberal
amounts of glue and wipe off the excess. Attach a
second layer of wacky wood to the first layer with glue
and screws. Nail, screw or staple to the curved form.
Reinforce the scoop at the middle with a piece of 2"x2"
or 2"x4" (preferred). Happy trails.
the jbl 4520 measure 48h 30d 36w .longer horn bigger mouth lower fh deeper bass practictly nonmovable. great sound, but if i try to copy i will build as-15 48x30x18 or7.5
i got 1 pair of 2x15-32w 40h 24d.we call 'em sugarscoops or squatties. nice bass/midbass "chest-thump" mine are loaded with evms heavy assed cabs.need big casters. i got 1 pair of jbl 4520 cabs. real deal 20s.they been (fiber)glassed.2x15 2226.big bass more of a "groin-thump". speaking of groin,if you value yours, forget casters...get a fork truck 'cause a side by side refrigerator full of fullers weighs less.these are outside toys.
ok the way to make the curved pieces is gey a sheet of 1/4" good one side plywood and cut it the rewuired 37.5" x22", get the yard to cut it, then, fill your bathtub up half way with hot water, and fill ALL the pots in your house with boiling water. Place the 22" side against the wall on top of the tub so the 37 " side faces you, Get-6 bricks ready before the water boils. SOAK the ply in the tub for 30 minutes+, then place it on top as described. put the bricks on the wood, evenly spaced, ald pour boiling water over the top of the wood. slowlt push it down into the tub until itit is IN. An average tub is 30 inches wide, PERFECT. Let it sit there for a few minutes then place it in the Jig you made earlier to hold it in this shape overnight while it dries. (JIG: plywood with 2 pieces of batton 30" apart to hold curve.) presto, 2 1/2" pieces per cabinet and your done.
Try the Madison Executioner 18 for the 18" version. They work well. I built 4 scoops stuffed with Madison ExecutionerX18's driven by 2 big Mackie M2600 amps. They serve up bass that most pros dream of. They absolutely palpate rear end!
Try the Madison Executioner 18 for the 18" version. They work well. I built 4 scoops stuffed with Madison ExecutionerX18's driven by 2 big Mackie M2600 amps. They serve up bass that most pros dream of. They absolutely palpate rear end!
i wish hard bass riflex long throw horn loded cebinet for eminence8 inch kilomax pro speeker.
i wish hard bass riflex long throw horn loded cebinet for eminence8 inch kilomax pro speeker.
We had these plans years ago. Used 12 of them for 18 years. Just built 12 new ones this summer. They produce that hard hitting punch bass frequency that thumps your insides that regular subwoofers don't. We don't use ours in a club we use them for Mobile DJ and live venue productions. They are awesome all purpose bass speakers! See website at www.avpro.com to see pictures.
We had these plans years ago. Used 12 of them for 18 years. Just built 12 new ones this summer. They produce that hard hitting punch bass frequency that thumps your insides that regular subwoofers don't. We don't use ours in a club we use them for Mobile DJ and live venue productions. They are awesome all purpose bass speakers! See website at www.avpro.com to see pictures.
Is there a way to size this down to use a single 12"? Has anyone tried using the scoop with a bass guitar? and what were the results?
Is there a way to size this down to use a single 12"? Has anyone tried using the scoop with a bass guitar? and what were the results?
I like these scoops they are very good and look the bollocks. I own a pair of 18" scoops and they sound heavy. If you are interested in making 15" scoops i would recommend the FANE COLUSSUS XB. To have a look go to the fane website and look for yourself.
I like these scoops they are very good and look the bollocks. I own a pair of 18" scoops and they sound heavy. If you are interested in making 15" scoops i would recommend the FANE COLUSSUS XB. To have a look go to the fane website and look for yourself.
i love these type of bass bins my point is that thay av 2 b one the best bass bins ever because 98 per cent of reggae sound systems use this style bin and listen how heavy the bass sounds love it; own 4x cabs my self love 2 make more and more will one day but my wife wood kill me keep playin the b line proper c ya
i love these type of bass bins my point is that thay av 2 b one the best bass bins ever because 98 per cent of reggae sound systems use this style bin and listen how heavy the bass sounds love it; own 4x cabs my self love 2 make more and more will one day but my wife wood kill me keep playin the b line proper c ya
i would like to builb two of these bins using8"fane could somebody tell me what changes i would have tomake with tihe design
i would like to builb two of these bins using8"fane could somebody tell me what changes i would have tomake with tihe design
Sick soundin cabs!!!! I have two of these cabs with Carvin 15" 600 Watt cast frame woofers. I use them to DJ at clubs and private parties, I mix a lot of HIP-HOP and man do they make BASS. They sound better than my friends ported double 18" cabs. If you want bass this is the cabinet you need.
would like a scoop speaker that can take 18" speaker do you have the drawings?
would like a scoop speaker that can take 18" speaker do you have the drawings?
Sick soundin cabs!!!! I have two of these cabs with Carvin 15" 600 Watt cast frame woofers. I use them to DJ at clubs and private parties, I mix a lot of HIP-HOP and man do they make BASS. They sound better than my friends ported double 18" cabs. If you want bass this is the cabinet you need.
i am very happy with dancetech.com its very good site.thanks dancetech.com
i wont a plan of lab sabwoofers.any one is have that plan so pl.give that plan....thanks
i wont a plan of lab sabwoofers.any one is have that plan so pl.give that plan....thanks
i wont a plan of lab sabwoofers.any one is have that plan so pl.give that plan....thanks
i am very happy with dancetech.com its very good site.thanks dancetech.com
i wont a plan of lab sabwoofers.any one is have that plan so pl.give that plan....thanks
Nowhere on these plans does it say which drivers are suitable for the scoops.
Put the wrong driver in there and it can get damaged.
So can someone tell me which drivers are suitable for the 15 inch scoop plans listed in here. I was thinking of using either Fane Collossus 15XB or Fane Cresendo 15B.
Nowhere on these plans does it say which drivers are suitable for the scoops.
Put the wrong driver in there and it can get damaged.
So can someone tell me which drivers are suitable for the 15 inch scoop plans listed in here. I was thinking of using either Fane Collossus 15XB or Fane Cresendo 15B.
g'day i built the enclosure using a single 12" custom driver, for car audio use which handles 800rms for my 4x4 and it did 147db on the rta meter at 45hz and poped the side windows out, i was very very impressed im going to build my next one for 4 x 15"z :)
g'day i built the enclosure using a single 12" custom driver, for car audio use which handles 800rms for my 4x4 and it did 147db on the rta meter at 45hz and poped the side windows out, i was very very impressed im going to build my next one for 4 x 15"z :)
I built 4 x 15 back in 1988 and am still using them for sound system & live p.a. just finished 4 x 18 and they all kick ass. all loaded with 600w drivers.
I built 4 x 15 back in 1988 and am still using them for sound system & live p.a. just finished 4 x 18 and they all kick ass. all loaded with 600w drivers.
i want micro scoop plan of my5"speakers any one give that plan halloooooo.
i want micro scoop plan of my5"speakers any one give that plan halloooooo.
its very hard bass horn.it s ultimatttttt.i think every one mad this type horn i love this cab.if any one new in sound line.started with this bass horn
its very hard bass horn.it s ultimatttttt.i think every one mad this type horn i love this cab.if any one new in sound line.started with this bass horn
i would like to have a scoop bass bin to house a celestion 18" 1520 driver and what changes should i make on the 15" scoop bass bin.
i would like to have a scoop bass bin to house a celestion 18" 1520 driver and what changes should i make on the 15" scoop bass bin.
i need plan for bass bins.i wont max spl and hard kick bass.any one sajest any plan for my bass speakers.excuse for my english.
i need plan for bass bins.i wont max spl and hard kick bass.any one sajest any plan for my bass speakers.excuse for my english.
If you want 18" scoop plans look at Axis Sound
http://www.axissound.fsnet.co.uk/HTML/18%22%20Scoop%20Bass.html
If you want 18" scoop plans look at Axis Sound
http://www.axissound.fsnet.co.uk/HTML/18%22%20Scoop%20Bass.html
thanks
thanks
Just got 2 of these and don't have a garage to store them in, and are very very heavy to store upstairs and couldn't lift it upstairs even with help from a friend, and thats unloaded.Maybe I was stupid making them out of 18mm inch thick mdf.
Anyway if you don't have a garage to store them in like me. :( Then build 12 inch versions of the scoops out of plywood[which is lighter but stronger than mdf but more expensive].
And use drivers like Eminence Omega Pro 12, Eminence Kappa Pro 12,Eminence Magnum pro 12,Ciare 12.00 SW,Eminence Lab 12
Just got 2 of these and don't have a garage to store them in, and are very very heavy to store upstairs and couldn't lift it upstairs even with help from a friend, and thats unloaded.Maybe I was stupid making them out of 18mm inch thick mdf.
Anyway if you don't have a garage to store them in like me. :( Then build 12 inch versions of the scoops out of plywood[which is lighter but stronger than mdf but more expensive].
And use drivers like Eminence Omega Pro 12, Eminence Kappa Pro 12,Eminence Magnum pro 12,Ciare 12.00 SW,Eminence Lab 12
ik got a quetion about 15" BASS-SCOOP REAR HORN LOADED CABINET what kind of speakers used in this cabinets is not readed in your story i got some of this speakers but i think there not the good speaker in it eminence kappa 15" 450 watts rms i think that the lf version better is but i don't now.
gr from holland (netherlands
ik got a quetion about 15" BASS-SCOOP REAR HORN LOADED CABINET what kind of speakers used in this cabinets is not readed in your story i got some of this speakers but i think there not the good speaker in it eminence kappa 15" 450 watts rms i think that the lf version better is but i don't now.
gr from holland (netherlands
"For example.....In a system of 8 OHMS total impedence, it is important that each section, Bass - Mid - Treble, should individualy have an impedence of 8 OHMS."
Not really. 90% of the power in music is going to the woofer. Consider the amp load whatever the woofer impedance.
Impedance of even a single driver will vary all over the place at different frequencies. This is not a problem.
I would not hesitate to run an 8 ohm woofer with 4 or 16 ohm mid or tweeter. The crossover parts for the mid and high section must be calculated on those drivers, of course.
James, your mids and tweeters can be put in separate boxes and simply stacked on top of the scoop enclosure.
Adrian: No need to calculate volume, this is not a ported or sealed box. It is a combination "transmission line" and horn. Technically it is a rear loaded horn.
Doc: 10" woofers are really not enough to provide the bass expected from these types of cabinets.
Gabrielli: www.partsexpress.com has the speaker grills, handles, protective corners, castors, and all the other hardware you could need for building commercial grade speakers.
ToXic: The Eminence Delta and Kappa series woofers are suitable, Pyle PYM1578 or PYM15128, the Parts Express woofers mentioned by another poster above, and many other woofers will work in this horn. I have not tried them, but would think the Peavey BW and Scorpions would work well, too. You want to use PA/Musical Inst woofers, not home stereo woofers.
Why go to the hassle of bending that bottom scoop plywood piece? It really is NOT necessary to have that curved piece. You can substitute a flat piece with beveled edges, placed at 45 degrees. Really, with these wavelengths, that bass wave will just never know the difference. Just place your ruler on the plans, draw a 45 splitting the difference across that curve.
I have sent out the Eminence plans to those requesting other sizes. The Eminence plans have measurments for 12", 15", and 18" woofers.
Why go to the hassle of bending that bottom scoop plywood piece? It really is NOT necessary to have that curved piece. You can substitute a flat piece with beveled edges, placed at 45 degrees. Really, with these wavelengths, that bass wave will just never know the difference. Just place your ruler on the plans, draw a 45 splitting the difference across that curve.
I have sent out the Eminence plans to those requesting other sizes. The Eminence plans have measurments for 12", 15", and 18" woofers.
"For example.....In a system of 8 OHMS total impedence, it is important that each section, Bass - Mid - Treble, should individualy have an impedence of 8 OHMS."
Not really. 90% of the power in music is going to the woofer. Consider the amp load whatever the woofer impedance.
Impedance of even a single driver will vary all over the place at different frequencies. This is not a problem.
I would not hesitate to run an 8 ohm woofer with 4 or 16 ohm mid or tweeter. The crossover parts for the mid and high section must be calculated on those drivers, of course.
James, your mids and tweeters can be put in separate boxes and simply stacked on top of the scoop enclosure.
Adrian: No need to calculate volume, this is not a ported or sealed box. It is a combination "transmission line" and horn. Technically it is a rear loaded horn.
Doc: 10" woofers are really not enough to provide the bass expected from these types of cabinets.
Gabrielli: www.partsexpress.com has the speaker grills, handles, protective corners, castors, and all the other hardware you could need for building commercial grade speakers.
ToXic: The Eminence Delta and Kappa series woofers are suitable, Pyle PYM1578 or PYM15128, the Parts Express woofers mentioned by another poster above, and many other woofers will work in this horn. I have not tried them, but would think the Peavey BW and Scorpions would work well, too. You want to use PA/Musical Inst woofers, not home stereo woofers.
does anyone have any plans for a 8" or 10" rear horn loaded bass scoop as i want to build one for my living room. If you do would you be anbe to email me them cheers Dave.
does anyone have any plans for a 8" or 10" rear horn loaded bass scoop as i want to build one for my living room. If you do would you be anbe to email me them cheers Dave.
Scaling down the plans further to accomodate 8" or 10" woofers would be a problem. The horn would not be long enough and you would end up with a bottom end in the 100hz-150hz range. There are plenty of good speakers you could build, ported or sealed boxes, half the size that will reach lower and be better suited for your living room. One that comes to mind is the 3pi design by Wayne Parham at www.pispeakers.com. This uses the Eminence Delta 12LF and will get down to 40 hz.
Scaling down the plans further to accomodate 8" or 10" woofers would be a problem. The horn would not be long enough and you would end up with a bottom end in the 100hz-150hz range. There are plenty of good speakers you could build, ported or sealed boxes, half the size that will reach lower and be better suited for your living room. One that comes to mind is the 3pi design by Wayne Parham at www.pispeakers.com. This uses the Eminence Delta 12LF and will get down to 40 hz.
Been using these speakers for years,know a guy who swapped his whole 20k rig for these with 15" Jbl drivers in-they drop to 15 hz so others who go on about the low freq probs of these bins are bullshitting-they're just jealous cos these ar the ultimate!A set of nice 18" W bin go very well under scoops to raise em to chest level!
Been using these speakers for years,know a guy who swapped his whole 20k rig for these with 15" Jbl drivers in-they drop to 15 hz so others who go on about the low freq probs of these bins are bullshitting-they're just jealous cos these ar the ultimate!A set of nice 18" W bin go very well under scoops to raise em to chest level!
4530 is a fabulous cabinet from JBL.
I've had in 1977 2 4530 for bass in my parents night club, and today, there are still around the dance place ! NO PROBLEM with CROWN amplifier, sound is here.
inside there in a 15' loudspeaker JBL.
Tke care, the conception is made for JBL, no other speaker.
Or Altec Lansing.
No Beyma, No B&C, No RCF, No Celestion, ONLY JBL.
There are many copies but the real one is JBL
4530 is a fabulous cabinet from JBL.
I've had in 1977 2 4530 for bass in my parents night club, and today, there are still around the dance place ! NO PROBLEM with CROWN amplifier, sound is here.
inside there in a 15' loudspeaker JBL.
Tke care, the conception is made for JBL, no other speaker.
Or Altec Lansing.
No Beyma, No B&C, No RCF, No Celestion, ONLY JBL.
There are many copies but the real one is JBL
Just a quick note. What you are showing in this article is a 4530 single 15 cabinet. The 4520's are double 15's. I have 4 of each with 15 and 12 mids and 2441 JBL drivers for the high's. These are mobile (granted, a bit on the bulky side) and I use mine quite alot in different combinations. GREAT for outdoor events.
Just a quick note. What you are showing in this article is a 4530 single 15 cabinet. The 4520's are double 15's. I have 4 of each with 15 and 12 mids and 2441 JBL drivers for the high's. These are mobile (granted, a bit on the bulky side) and I use mine quite alot in different combinations. GREAT for outdoor events.
insane enclosure im a car audio guru so im cracking big dbz now with this enclosure in a van im using 2 12'' custom drivers 2000rms each MASSIVE BASS 156db and still playing
insane enclosure im a car audio guru so im cracking big dbz now with this enclosure in a van im using 2 12'' custom drivers 2000rms each MASSIVE BASS 156db and still playing
I am very much excited by the posted results of scoop.
Has anyone build 12" versions, if so please mention how does it sound, and which drivers been used.
I wanna build it for small indoor parties
I am very much excited by the posted results of scoop.
Has anyone build 12" versions, if so please mention how does it sound, and which drivers been used.
I wanna build it for small indoor parties
I want to know the inner dimensions.
I want to know the inner dimensions.
hey i havnt try out ur cab yea but ive been lookin at it and it's my second in mind but i was wondering if u could help me out in building a dobble scoop for 2 2226 jbls thanks
hey i havnt try out ur cab yea but ive been lookin at it and it's my second in mind but i was wondering if u could help me out in building a dobble scoop for 2 2226 jbls thanks
These "sugar scoop" type cabinets have been around for decades, having been built by most major manufacturers. The 1x15 and 1x18 versions are good, but the 2x15 version of this type of design has always had the best results. Most major loudspeaker manufacturers have speakers which will work nicely in these cabinets, but I suggest you email them prior to your purchase to make sure that you get speakers which will work optimally in this application.
This plan is typical for this design, and is easily modified. For an 18" speaker, simply increase all dimensions by 20%. For two 15s, simply stretch the width to accomodate the extra 15, but DO NOT increase the height or depth. Using a speaker (or speakers) smaller than 15s in this type of design can be done, and can yield VERY good results (especially for bass guitar!), but these must be designed much differently in order to reap the benefits of using the smaller drivers, which is extended high frequency response.
Your choice of construction materials will make a huge difference when it comes to your love/hate relationship with these speakers. DO NOT USE MDF unless you plan to use them in a permanent installation. MDF is MUCH heavier than plywood, it chips and breaks much more easily, and is much more proned to humidity and water damage. Also remember that these cabinets are designed to create huge amounts of BASS. The more rigid your cabinet is designed and assembled, the better the bass will sound. I highly recommend 3/4" plywood over/8" plywood, both for sound and durability. The difference in weight will be negligible.
I cannot over-emphasize the need for good physical protection for these cabinets. They are heavy and cumbersome, so the occasional slip and drop is bound to happen. Use large METAL corners (like the ones used on flight cases), and use metal edge rails (AT LEAST on the bottom). Angling the top and bottom of the back of these cabinets to provide for a grab bar and 2 casters will be a feature you will also be very happy you incorporated.
This should answer some of your questions. Take your time when you do the project. Layout of your wood is of utmost importance! Double-check your layout before doing any cutting (Carpenters' Rule: measure twice / cut once), and check your layout pieces from corner to corner BEFORE YOU CUT to make sure they are "square". Always do a "dry run" before you glue and screw (MAKE SURE the work is "square!), and always clamp properly before you glue and screw (MAKE SURE it is "square" before you put in the screws!). Use a table saw to do your cutting, if possible. If not, and you only have a hand-held circular saw, you can use a clamped-on metal straight-edge, as a fence, to ensure your cuts remain perfectly straight. I do not recommend drawing lines and then trying to follow them, freehand, with a circular saw ... this will seem "close enough" as you are cutting the pieces, but will turn into a nightmare during assembly and final finishing.
These "sugar scoop" type cabinets have been around for decades, having been built by most major manufacturers. The 1x15 and 1x18 versions are good, but the 2x15 version of this type of design has always had the best results. Most major loudspeaker manufacturers have speakers which will work nicely in these cabinets, but I suggest you email them prior to your purchase to make sure that you get speakers which will work optimally in this application.
This plan is typical for this design, and is easily modified. For an 18" speaker, simply increase all dimensions by 20%. For two 15s, simply stretch the width to accomodate the extra 15, but DO NOT increase the height or depth. Using a speaker (or speakers) smaller than 15s in this type of design can be done, and can yield VERY good results (especially for bass guitar!), but these must be designed much differently in order to reap the benefits of using the smaller drivers, which is extended high frequency response.
Your choice of construction materials will make a huge difference when it comes to your love/hate relationship with these speakers. DO NOT USE MDF unless you plan to use them in a permanent installation. MDF is MUCH heavier than plywood, it chips and breaks much more easily, and is much more proned to humidity and water damage. Also remember that these cabinets are designed to create huge amounts of BASS. The more rigid your cabinet is designed and assembled, the better the bass will sound. I highly recommend 3/4" plywood over/8" plywood, both for sound and durability. The difference in weight will be negligible.
I cannot over-emphasize the need for good physical protection for these cabinets. They are heavy and cumbersome, so the occasional slip and drop is bound to happen. Use large METAL corners (like the ones used on flight cases), and use metal edge rails (AT LEAST on the bottom). Angling the top and bottom of the back of these cabinets to provide for a grab bar and 2 casters will be a feature you will also be very happy you incorporated.
This should answer some of your questions. Take your time when you do the project. Layout of your wood is of utmost importance! Double-check your layout before doing any cutting (Carpenters' Rule: measure twice / cut once), and check your layout pieces from corner to corner BEFORE YOU CUT to make sure they are "square". Always do a "dry run" before you glue and screw (MAKE SURE the work is "square!), and always clamp properly before you glue and screw (MAKE SURE it is "square" before you put in the screws!). Use a table saw to do your cutting, if possible. If not, and you only have a hand-held circular saw, you can use a clamped-on metal straight-edge, as a fence, to ensure your cuts remain perfectly straight. I do not recommend drawing lines and then trying to follow them, freehand, with a circular saw ... this will seem "close enough" as you are cutting the pieces, but will turn into a nightmare during assembly and final finishing.
does anybody know what the -3db frequency is on this cabinet? off hand I would guesstimate about 65 hz judging from the mouth.
does anybody know what the -3db frequency is on this cabinet? off hand I would guesstimate about 65 hz judging from the mouth.
just a question more
i am building a bass bin with 15'' speakers and i was looking for a design that has the speaker go inside so that it is they are not visble from the outer part of the box is that possible or its a crazy imagination help me with one if you have an idea
just a question more
i am building a bass bin with 15'' speakers and i was looking for a design that has the speaker go inside so that it is they are not visble from the outer part of the box is that possible or its a crazy imagination help me with one if you have an idea
Yes, right here:
http://www.dancetech.com/aa_dt_new/pa/15_bass_celestion_w_bin.cfm
Yes, right here:
http://www.dancetech.com/aa_dt_new/pa/15_bass_celestion_w_bin.cfm
give me more info on designe
give me more info on designe
Someone had asked about frequency response with this cab. I have located an old JBL brochure for their 4350, which was the 15" version of this scoop design.
It says, "Seven-foot folded horn provides maximum loading to0 Hz, with usable response to 40 Hz."
Then there is a response curve shown made with a JBL 2205 woofer. It is -12 db at 40 Hz, -5 db at0 Hz, -1 db at 60 Hz, +1 db at 70 Hz, +2 db at 80 Hz, +2.5 db at 90 Hz, +2 db at 100 Hz, -3 db at 150 Hz, back up to 0 db at 200 Hz, and some minor wiggles up and down above that.
I would bet that the dip at 150 Hz and wiggles above could be damped out by using poly fiberfill or fiberglass stuffing as you do with a transmission line, while still allowing the rear wave to reinforce the bass under 100 Hz.
A 6 db boot on the equalizer at0 hz would bring up the bottom end.
They have a caution that below the cutoff frequency, to prevent excessive cone excursion, input needs to be limited. In other words, run a "rumble filter". My electronic crossover has 30 Hz filters, so that is easy to do.
i was told that if u shorten the lenth by 20% and increase the length by the same u get increase in the bass ?is htis true
Someone had asked about frequency response with this cab. I have located an old JBL brochure for their 4350, which was the 15" version of this scoop design.
It says, "Seven-foot folded horn provides maximum loading to0 Hz, with usable response to 40 Hz."
Then there is a response curve shown made with a JBL 2205 woofer. It is -12 db at 40 Hz, -5 db at0 Hz, -1 db at 60 Hz, +1 db at 70 Hz, +2 db at 80 Hz, +2.5 db at 90 Hz, +2 db at 100 Hz, -3 db at 150 Hz, back up to 0 db at 200 Hz, and some minor wiggles up and down above that.
I would bet that the dip at 150 Hz and wiggles above could be damped out by using poly fiberfill or fiberglass stuffing as you do with a transmission line, while still allowing the rear wave to reinforce the bass under 100 Hz.
A 6 db boot on the equalizer at0 hz would bring up the bottom end.
They have a caution that below the cutoff frequency, to prevent excessive cone excursion, input needs to be limited. In other words, run a "rumble filter". My electronic crossover has 30 Hz filters, so that is easy to do.
i was told that if u shorten the lenth by 20% and increase the length by the same u get increase in the bass ?is htis true
Shorten where and lengthen where? I don't understand your question.
Shorten where and lengthen where? I don't understand your question.
hey i tried it on a 26 inch and i have got the best bass bin in africa
hey i tried it on a 26 inch and i have got the best bass bin in africa
Hey!!
I made 18" scoops but i reduced the hight and increased the lenght from the front to the back and man these scoops are the ones.....
WOW. This cab is simply amazing for turning you home into a dance club. Just one is Great. I am running a CERWIN-VEGA STROKER 15 off of an Energy S12.3 plate amp. Just a great sound and enough punch for a blurred vision. Absolutely no output below 40Hz though. But verrry killer above that. The only thing I have not put in is the rounded scoop part under the speaker... I'm not sure if I want to or not,. Anyways, Kick Ass...
Hey!!
I made 18" scoops but i reduced the hight and increased the lenght from the front to the back and man these scoops are the ones.....
WOW. This cab is simply amazing for turning you home into a dance club. Just one is Great. I am running a CERWIN-VEGA STROKER 15 off of an Energy S12.3 plate amp. Just a great sound and enough punch for a blurred vision. Absolutely no output below 40Hz though. But verrry killer above that. The only thing I have not put in is the rounded scoop part under the speaker... I'm not sure if I want to or not,. Anyways, Kick Ass...
I have one of these speakers for sale made out of mdf with heavy duty corner protectors. this cab has just been built, the paint is still wet and it has never been loaded. built to the highest standard, i work for a well respected furniture company, and i build speakers in my spare time. Most are for my personal dub reggae system. some i build just for fun. email me with any interest. photos availible on request
I have one of these speakers for sale made out of mdf with heavy duty corner protectors. this cab has just been built, the paint is still wet and it has never been loaded. built to the highest standard, i work for a well respected furniture company, and i build speakers in my spare time. Most are for my personal dub reggae system. some i build just for fun. email me with any interest. photos availible on request
gr8
these are just mind blowing
any one for the 18" version of these
i am looking forward to it
gr8
these are just mind blowing
any one for the 18" version of these
i am looking forward to it
Hi, I've got these 4530 cabs too. Driver ist the Eminence Kappa Pro 15 LF. Amp will be LPDA 1600X in several weeks.
Good choice? Bad choice? Or between?
Hi, I've got these 4530 cabs too. Driver ist the Eminence Kappa Pro 15 LF. Amp will be LPDA 1600X in several weeks.
Good choice? Bad choice? Or between?
Appears to be a tried and tested design. As far as the dimensions go I want to shave 4" off the width and 2" off the height. Any idea if this will effect performance drasticly? reason? .. it won't go through the door otherwise, or fit in the car. I have searched the web for more compact designs that will give excellent LF performance, to 40Hz, but drawn a blank, amazing . . Nothing in the whole world lol.. I want to use this cab for bass guitar .
Any recommendations please, books, designs, anything. But not the size of a washing machine if possible.
Appears to be a tried and tested design. As far as the dimensions go I want to shave 4" off the width and 2" off the height. Any idea if this will effect performance drasticly? reason? .. it won't go through the door otherwise, or fit in the car. I have searched the web for more compact designs that will give excellent LF performance, to 40Hz, but drawn a blank, amazing . . Nothing in the whole world lol.. I want to use this cab for bass guitar .
Any recommendations please, books, designs, anything. But not the size of a washing machine if possible.
Cabinet looks great, and I am ordering the timber tomorrow. However, a cutting list of panels and sizes would have been a useful addition to the instructions.
Cabinet looks great, and I am ordering the timber tomorrow. However, a cutting list of panels and sizes would have been a useful addition to the instructions.
can i get some to buy
can i get some to buy
i need a good bass bin cabinets which handles lowest frequence
i need a good bass bin cabinets which handles lowest frequence
it cool
it cool
scoops are great but i think bandpass (push pull design) are better alround I use push pull boxes each box drives 2 x eminence kilomax 18's and yep the sound is amazzzzzzzing.
scoops are great but i think bandpass (push pull design) are better alround I use push pull boxes each box drives 2 x eminence kilomax 18's and yep the sound is amazzzzzzzing.
Thank u very much 4 the design. Do u have other hornloaded designs? e.g 18"
Thank u very much 4 the design. Do u have other hornloaded designs? e.g 18"
Nice, but I enjoy 18" subs, do you carry the specs for that size seaker? I plan to put Fane inside of them, pushing it with the power light QSC 9.0 (I have four fanes, and I plan on using just one channel)
Nice, but I enjoy 18" subs, do you carry the specs for that size seaker? I plan to put Fane inside of them, pushing it with the power light QSC 9.0 (I have four fanes, and I plan on using just one channel)
seqrhej.com
seqrhej.com
these are looking just the trick, usual questions: is there any chance of some more detailed plans and preferably for an 18" version. ive got a pro whos willing to make these and could get them made for people all as well pls email feedback welcome.
these are looking just the trick, usual questions: is there any chance of some more detailed plans and preferably for an 18" version. ive got a pro whos willing to make these and could get them made for people all as well pls email feedback welcome.
i would like to make 18" bin how can i getthe speak
i would like to make 18" bin how can i getthe speak
I attended a drum & bass night where there was four of these bins, it was damn loud! However, these were8" versions, and I am very interested in building my own. Could you or anyone send me plans, or send me in the right direction on how to build an8" version. The speakers I have given the most consideration are the Celestion BX18 600w 30-300hz, do you think this would be good? Also if I were to build the5" version, would you recommend the5" version of the above speaker? Thanks for reading. Wicked cab.
I attended a drum & bass night where there was four of these bins, it was damn loud! However, these were8" versions, and I am very interested in building my own. Could you or anyone send me plans, or send me in the right direction on how to build an8" version. The speakers I have given the most consideration are the Celestion BX18 600w 30-300hz, do you think this would be good? Also if I were to build the5" version, would you recommend the5" version of the above speaker? Thanks for reading. Wicked cab.
In the article I state:
"Suitable woofers are ones with high EBP (Efficiency Bandwidth Product), at least EBP = 90, and better 100 or more. Eminence publishes EBP, but you can also calculate EBP from EBP = Qes/fs. Also, for scoops you want fs (woofer resonant frequency) to be below the horn cutoff. For the 15" scoop this means you want fs below 40 hz."
Let me explain these. Speakers with low EBP,0 or lower, generally work better in sealed enclosures ("acoustic suspension" or "infinite baffle"). Speakers with high EBP 100 or higher, generally work better in ported or horn loaded enclosures. EBP between0 and 100, try in one of the modeling programs both ways, see what solution appeals to you.
About the fs... 12" scoops have a low end cutoff of about5 - 60 hz. 15" scoops have a low end cutoff of about 40 hz. 18" scoops about 35 hz.
What happens is that below the cabinet cutoff frequency the horn no longer loads the woofer well and cone excursion rapidly increases. Not only that, at fs (woofer resonance frequency) the woofer's cone excursion increases and distortion increases. So, the woofer will not behave well at fs or lower. So, why waste some of the capability of your woofer? Chose a woofer with fs below the horn cutoff.
Additionally, it would be wise to turn on the low filter (aka "rumble filter") on your amp/mixer. These filters are generally made to roll off at about 30 hz. This will allow you to "crank it up" without as much worry about damaging the woofer.
So, rather than a long list of woofers, some of which may be out of production, or not include new products, you can simply chose according to the simple criteria... fs below horn cutoff, EBP at least 90, and better if 100 or more.
The site owners of Dancetech have added a scoop construction article I have written. It includes photos.
Simply go to the main page of dancetech and you will find it.
Paul C.
In the article I state:
"Suitable woofers are ones with high EBP (Efficiency Bandwidth Product), at least EBP = 90, and better 100 or more. Eminence publishes EBP, but you can also calculate EBP from EBP = Qes/fs. Also, for scoops you want fs (woofer resonant frequency) to be below the horn cutoff. For the 15" scoop this means you want fs below 40 hz."
Let me explain these. Speakers with low EBP,0 or lower, generally work better in sealed enclosures ("acoustic suspension" or "infinite baffle"). Speakers with high EBP 100 or higher, generally work better in ported or horn loaded enclosures. EBP between0 and 100, try in one of the modeling programs both ways, see what solution appeals to you.
About the fs... 12" scoops have a low end cutoff of about5 - 60 hz. 15" scoops have a low end cutoff of about 40 hz. 18" scoops about 35 hz.
What happens is that below the cabinet cutoff frequency the horn no longer loads the woofer well and cone excursion rapidly increases. Not only that, at fs (woofer resonance frequency) the woofer's cone excursion increases and distortion increases. So, the woofer will not behave well at fs or lower. So, why waste some of the capability of your woofer? Chose a woofer with fs below the horn cutoff.
Additionally, it would be wise to turn on the low filter (aka "rumble filter") on your amp/mixer. These filters are generally made to roll off at about 30 hz. This will allow you to "crank it up" without as much worry about damaging the woofer.
So, rather than a long list of woofers, some of which may be out of production, or not include new products, you can simply chose according to the simple criteria... fs below horn cutoff, EBP at least 90, and better if 100 or more.
The site owners of Dancetech have added a scoop construction article I have written. It includes photos.
Simply go to the main page of dancetech and you will find it.
Paul C.
Could you calculate a stretched version of this about twice as tall for enhanced bass output?
That would be ideal for me for on stage work. I've got two QSC 15's laying around and want a direct/rear-horn plan like this. But every now and then, I'll need to run a bass through it.
Thanks,
:) Gene
Could you calculate a stretched version of this about twice as tall for enhanced bass output?
That would be ideal for me for on stage work. I've got two QSC 15's laying around and want a direct/rear-horn plan like this. But every now and then, I'll need to run a bass through it.
Thanks,
:) Gene
Hey, guy... you do realize these are already 40" tall (1020 mm)? How would you move them around?
Hey, guy... you do realize these are already 40" tall (1020 mm)? How would you move them around?
Go here for better plans:www .speakerplans.com
Other than that, if you want some loud speakers with nice hifi quality, heres the place! But for more proffesional designs for mobile pro sound speakerplans.com is teh place to be!
These scoops are fantastic for house parties tho! Ive got a pair loaded with cheap eminence beta15's and they rock!
L8as, Joe.
Go here for better plans:www .speakerplans.com
Other than that, if you want some loud speakers with nice hifi quality, heres the place! But for more proffesional designs for mobile pro sound speakerplans.com is teh place to be!
These scoops are fantastic for house parties tho! Ive got a pair loaded with cheap eminence beta15's and they rock!
L8as, Joe.
Used this design for many years in mobile sound system. Real efficient for mid and lows. Used 15"00 watt EV's. Must emphasize cabinet being air tight . Also suggest 1" ply for front panel holding speakers. This panel comes under a lot of stress depending on speakers used.
Is there a more compact version of this design ??
Fazil
Used this design for many years in mobile sound system. Real efficient for mid and lows. Used 15"00 watt EV's. Must emphasize cabinet being air tight . Also suggest 1" ply for front panel holding speakers. This panel comes under a lot of stress depending on speakers used.
Is there a more compact version of this design ??
Fazil
OOps...ok I have 4 of these built to the specs for dual 15" scoops. I load them with eminence sigma pro 15" which handle about 700 watts safely and clean. I cross them over at 90hz and use them in a club. They all 4 which is 8 15's get powered by a crown microtech 3600 (2 amps. to make that clear). CHEST POUNDING, EARTH SHAKING, MASSIVE BASS!! ***** trust me ***** this is the bass you want for any club.
i use 15" eminence sigma pro's and they rock louder than the original jbl2226 that came in them.
OOps...ok I have 4 of these built to the specs for dual 15" scoops. I load them with eminence sigma pro 15" which handle about 700 watts safely and clean. I cross them over at 90hz and use them in a club. They all 4 which is 8 15's get powered by a crown microtech 3600 (2 amps. to make that clear). CHEST POUNDING, EARTH SHAKING, MASSIVE BASS!! ***** trust me ***** this is the bass you want for any club.
i use 15" eminence sigma pro's and they rock louder than the original jbl2226 that came in them.
JBL manufactured a variation of this speaker cabinet in the sixties in furniture grade finish for home stereo use. It was available with a 130A JBL 15-inch bass driver, a 175DLH HF driver and horn, and an N1200 crossover. I still have two sets of these components, but no speaker cabinet for them. I bought plans for just such a JBL cabinet back in the sixties, but never built it because of the complexity and no woodworking equipment. These were "C" sized drawings I believe, and if I can find them, I'll try to build a pair. If not , I'll build and modify this version to accomodate the HF drivers. The speakers I have are high-efficiency types and thus can be driven by low-power amps. JBL also made a "linear efficiency" version of these speaker components that were rated for higher powered amps, the part numbers were prefixed with the letters "LE."
JBL manufactured a variation of this speaker cabinet in the sixties in furniture grade finish for home stereo use. It was available with a 130A JBL 15-inch bass driver, a 175DLH HF driver and horn, and an N1200 crossover. I still have two sets of these components, but no speaker cabinet for them. I bought plans for just such a JBL cabinet back in the sixties, but never built it because of the complexity and no woodworking equipment. These were "C" sized drawings I believe, and if I can find them, I'll try to build a pair. If not , I'll build and modify this version to accomodate the HF drivers. The speakers I have are high-efficiency types and thus can be driven by low-power amps. JBL also made a "linear efficiency" version of these speaker components that were rated for higher powered amps, the part numbers were prefixed with the letters "LE."
The plans for this box are not right. If I try to go by the angles, the corner-point dimensions of each board are off, and vice-versa. In other words, if I place the driver baffle as dimensioned, then try to locate the lower end of that adjacent board by the dimensions (10.625" &2.25"), the angle is NOT 30 degrees.
Basically, this cabinet cannot be built by the dimensions and angles given, as they do not agree when attempting to lay the thing out in AutoCAD.
You really should do an as-built drawing of one that's known good, and put that up here
The plans for this box are not right. If I try to go by the angles, the corner-point dimensions of each board are off, and vice-versa. In other words, if I place the driver baffle as dimensioned, then try to locate the lower end of that adjacent board by the dimensions (10.625" &2.25"), the angle is NOT 30 degrees.
Basically, this cabinet cannot be built by the dimensions and angles given, as they do not agree when attempting to lay the thing out in AutoCAD.
You really should do an as-built drawing of one that's known good, and put that up here
WE HAVE BEEN BUILDING THESE CABINETS FOR MANY YEARS, AND ALTHOUGH MANY SCOOP BINS ARE OF THE 18" VARIETY,WE HAVE ALWAYS ACKNOWLEDGED THE ORIGINAL WHICH IS THE JBL 4530 AND THE LONGER HORN4520 WHICH WAS THE 2X15
IT WAS THE 4530 THAT WAS SCALED UP TO PRODUCE OUR OWN S118 AND THEN SCALED UP AGAIN TO PRODUCE OUR 21"SCOOP, AND THEN MODIFIED FOR OUR CURRENT RX118.
ALL I WILL SAY IS IF YOU ARE MAKING THEM YOURSELF, MAKE THEM THICK AND HEAVY . WE DO.
WE HAVE BEEN BUILDING THESE CABINETS FOR MANY YEARS, AND ALTHOUGH MANY SCOOP BINS ARE OF THE 18" VARIETY,WE HAVE ALWAYS ACKNOWLEDGED THE ORIGINAL WHICH IS THE JBL 4530 AND THE LONGER HORN4520 WHICH WAS THE 2X15
IT WAS THE 4530 THAT WAS SCALED UP TO PRODUCE OUR OWN S118 AND THEN SCALED UP AGAIN TO PRODUCE OUR 21"SCOOP, AND THEN MODIFIED FOR OUR CURRENT RX118.
ALL I WILL SAY IS IF YOU ARE MAKING THEM YOURSELF, MAKE THEM THICK AND HEAVY . WE DO.
WE HAVE BEEN BUILDING THESE CABINETS FOR MANY YEARS, AND ALTHOUGH MANY SCOOP BINS ARE OF THE 18" VARIETY,WE HAVE ALWAYS ACKNOWLEDGED THE ORIGINAL WHICH IS THE JBL 4530 AND THE LONGER HORN4520 WHICH WAS THE 2X15
IT WAS THE 4530 THAT WAS SCALED UP TO PRODUCE OUR OWN S118 AND THEN SCALED UP AGAIN TO PRODUCE OUR 21"SCOOP, AND THEN MODIFIED FOR OUR CURRENT RX118.
ALL I WILL SAY IS IF YOU ARE MAKING THEM YOURSELF, MAKE THEM THICK AND HEAVY . WE DO.
WE HAVE BEEN BUILDING THESE CABINETS FOR MANY YEARS, AND ALTHOUGH MANY SCOOP BINS ARE OF THE 18" VARIETY,WE HAVE ALWAYS ACKNOWLEDGED THE ORIGINAL WHICH IS THE JBL 4530 AND THE LONGER HORN4520 WHICH WAS THE 2X15
IT WAS THE 4530 THAT WAS SCALED UP TO PRODUCE OUR OWN S118 AND THEN SCALED UP AGAIN TO PRODUCE OUR 21"SCOOP, AND THEN MODIFIED FOR OUR CURRENT RX118.
ALL I WILL SAY IS IF YOU ARE MAKING THEM YOURSELF, MAKE THEM THICK AND HEAVY . WE DO.
Help me please to give me plans and drawing of a box to my 18" stroker cerwin vega.
Help me please to give me plans and drawing of a box to my 18" stroker cerwin vega.
there are a phat speaker from aidan
there are a phat speaker from aidan
I built some of these scoops 6 months ago, using Eminence Delta 12c. Awesome mid range cabs with a thump. Using them in a 4 way system with 18" Lows. Email me for construction pics.
I built some of these scoops 6 months ago, using Eminence Delta 12c. Awesome mid range cabs with a thump. Using them in a 4 way system with 18" Lows. Email me for construction pics.
hi i'm trying to get the specks to build my own 18" version on the bass scoop. Is there anyone who can help me please
hi i'm trying to get the specks to build my own 18" version on the bass scoop. Is there anyone who can help me please
This looks good!. Time to put all my tools to work. Whats the low Freguency output like with this design?. What do you think of a 400watt RMS powered Sub Module in each Cab, too much vibration maybe?.Thanks for the plans!.
This looks good!. Time to put all my tools to work. Whats the low Freguency output like with this design?. What do you think of a 400watt RMS powered Sub Module in each Cab, too much vibration maybe?.Thanks for the plans!.
Just finished building 2 of these cabs, the output is LETHAL!!. If any newby wants pics of different stages of construction, send me an Email. Great design!.
Just finished building 2 of these cabs, the output is LETHAL!!. If any newby wants pics of different stages of construction, send me an Email. Great design!.
I've experimented with other desings, mostly folded horns but so far i think scoop stands out.
I've experimented with other desings, mostly folded horns but so far i think scoop stands out.
Hi like the design its out of and old FANE acoustics book from 1983 which i still have its a bit tatty i will put on a pdf format one day
it was brown with a check pattern on front
Hi like the design its out of and old FANE acoustics book from 1983 which i still have its a bit tatty i will put on a pdf format one day
it was brown with a check pattern on front
Since JBL never made an 18" version of the 4520 4530 "Scoop". What you do is take the 15 inch plans and add 20% to it. Make sure you work off of the REAL JBL 15" specs.
Since JBL never made an 18" version of the 4520 4530 "Scoop". What you do is take the 15 inch plans and add 20% to it. Make sure you work off of the REAL JBL 15" specs.
these boxes are serious, iv got 4 15" scoops loaded with celestion frontline 1000w rms drivers and they'v rattled every club/hall/anywhere iv taken them!! in the process of gettin 4 18" scoops built as the 18" drop much lower and in my eyes are much more effeciant than the 15's.
these boxes are serious, iv got 4 15" scoops loaded with celestion frontline 1000w rms drivers and they'v rattled every club/hall/anywhere iv taken them!! in the process of gettin 4 18" scoops built as the 18" drop much lower and in my eyes are much more effeciant than the 15's.
!!!! Im looking for scaled down plans !!!!!
If i could get the proper loading for a 10" driver i could extend the lower end using the scoops rear loading attributes and build a dual 10" scoop with a high freq section that could be stacked or flown in a linear array for even greater lower output to match my subs.
currently im using folded 15" for 150hz and below. but i want a nice box i can stack or fly without paying an arm and a leg. Only needs to go as low as 125hz or so.
thankyou.
dudley
!!!! Im looking for scaled down plans !!!!!
If i could get the proper loading for a 10" driver i could extend the lower end using the scoops rear loading attributes and build a dual 10" scoop with a high freq section that could be stacked or flown in a linear array for even greater lower output to match my subs.
currently im using folded 15" for 150hz and below. but i want a nice box i can stack or fly without paying an arm and a leg. Only needs to go as low as 125hz or so.
thankyou.
dudley
I am a well know d j from the caribbean
I just moved to sweden and was looking to buy a new dj seat up.
But i had a very big problem finding a good low end bass cabin.
In the caribbean we use this kind of bass cabin.
I TRY A Cerwin Vega JE-36b Passive BASS CABIN
But frist hand let me tell you.
YOU NEED 2 OF DOES Cerwin Vega JE-36b Passive TO GIVE YOU THE SOUND OF ONE BASS-SCOOP REAR HORN LOADED CABINET .
AND FOR A MUCH LOWER PRICE.
THE Cerwin Vega JE-36b Passive COST AROUND 600
BUT THIS CABIN YOU CAN BUY THE WOOD AND MAKE IT YOUR SELF FOR ABOUT 400 ALONG WITH A PEAVEY, EV OR JBL WOFFER SPEACKER
THIS CABIN ROCKS AND IF YOU HAVE 4 OF THEM WITH 15INCS OR 18INCS WITH 4 HIGHS AND HORN.
U WILL ROCK ANY PARTY AND WILL BE HEARD UP TO ONE MILE OR IF IN A LOAD PLACE LIKE NYC ABOUT 12 BLOKCS
THEY SHOULD CALL THIS CABIN DISTRUBING THA PEACE.
In the caribbean i have 6 of does bass carbin with peavey low rider at the bass
Am useing a peavey 4,000watt AMP FOR MY BASS
STAND TO CLOSES AND THE BASS HITS YOUR CHEST VERY HARD
IF EATING OR DRINKING SOMTHING AND YOU WILL FEEL IT MOVING ABOUT AS IT GOES DOWN YOUR BODY.
THE BASS YOU GET FROM THIS CARBIN IS ONE YOU WOULD FEEL THE EARTH MOVE
FIND IT HARD TO BELIVE ME?
TRY USEING ONE ,,JUST ONE IN YOUR HOUSE
TRUN IT UP AND GET READY TO BUY NEW CLASS FOR EVER WINDOW
I USED 6 IN A CLUB ABOUT 800sq ft AND THE SPEAKERS DOT MOVE A BIT
NO NEED TO TRUN IT UP AT ALL.
THAT PLACE IS TO SMALL
THIS CARBIN WORKS BEST OUT DOORS
IN DOORS FRIST TIME USERS BE CARE FULL
CRACK UP THE SOUND ABOUT 1/4% THEN STEP OUT SIDE TO MAKE SURE ALL THE WINDOWS ARE STILL IN PLEACE
THEN GO FROM THERE
In the caribbean i have 6 of does bass carbin with peavey low rider at the bass
Am useing a peavey 4,000watt AMP FOR MY BASS
STAND TO CLOSES AND THE BASS HITS YOUR CHEST VERY HARD
IF EATING OR DRINKING SOMTHING AND YOU WILL FEEL IT MOVING ABOUT AS IT GOES DOWN YOUR BODY.
THE BASS YOU GET FROM THIS CARBIN IS ONE YOU WOULD FEEL THE EARTH MOVE
FIND IT HARD TO BELIVE ME?
TRY USEING ONE ,,JUST ONE IN YOUR HOUSE
TRUN IT UP AND GET READY TO BUY NEW CLASS FOR EVER WINDOW
I USED 6 IN A CLUB ABOUT 800sq ft AND THE SPEAKERS DOT MOVE A BIT
NO NEED TO TRUN IT UP AT ALL.
THAT PLACE IS TO SMALL
THIS CARBIN WORKS BEST OUT DOORS
IN DOORS FRIST TIME USERS BE CARE FULL
CRACK UP THE SOUND ABOUT 1/4% THEN STEP OUT SIDE TO MAKE SURE ALL THE WINDOWS ARE STILL IN PLEACE
THEN GO FROM THERE
I am a well know d j from the caribbean
I just moved to sweden and was looking to buy a new dj seat up.
But i had a very big problem finding a good low end bass cabin.
In the caribbean we use this kind of bass cabin.
I TRY A Cerwin Vega JE-36b Passive BASS CABIN
But frist hand let me tell you.
YOU NEED 2 OF DOES Cerwin Vega JE-36b Passive TO GIVE YOU THE SOUND OF ONE BASS-SCOOP REAR HORN LOADED CABINET .
AND FOR A MUCH LOWER PRICE.
THE Cerwin Vega JE-36b Passive COST AROUND 600
BUT THIS CABIN YOU CAN BUY THE WOOD AND MAKE IT YOUR SELF FOR ABOUT 400 ALONG WITH A PEAVEY, EV OR JBL WOFFER SPEACKER
THIS CABIN ROCKS AND IF YOU HAVE 4 OF THEM WITH 15INCS OR 18INCS WITH 4 HIGHS AND HORN.
U WILL ROCK ANY PARTY AND WILL BE HEARD UP TO ONE MILE OR IF IN A LOAD PLACE LIKE NYC ABOUT 12 BLOKCS
THEY SHOULD CALL THIS CABIN DISTRUBING THA PEACE.
hi great site theses plans an other are taken fron the very old FANE ACCOUSTICS book
the one with the brown cover i bought my book in 1985 from maplins in hammersmith still have it now its a good no nonsense book on speaker building ,also have tinitus . HA HA so have built quite a few boxes
james
hi great site theses plans an other are taken fron the very old FANE ACCOUSTICS book
the one with the brown cover i bought my book in 1985 from maplins in hammersmith still have it now its a good no nonsense book on speaker building ,also have tinitus . HA HA so have built quite a few boxes
james
please, traduction in french yhe text.
Send to my mail
Thank"s
please, traduction in french yhe text.
Send to my mail
Thank"s
built one of these 15inch scoop, looks brilliant! The angle on the first baffle underneath the driver is wrong, it's not 30 it's 45.
I want to build a top cab for my 15 inch scoop, anybody got any plans? please email me.
Thank you.
built one of these 15inch scoop, looks brilliant! The angle on the first baffle underneath the driver is wrong, it's not 30 it's 45.
I want to build a top cab for my 15 inch scoop, anybody got any plans? please email me.
Thank you.
thanks for the article
These are from the fane book i have on CD i have built speaker bins from the age of ten as i lived next to 5 DJs and they had 2 guy who built all there kit and he only lived 3 doors down from me so i spent a lot of time in his work shop and i learn a lot from him i have 20 of these use a good driver and you will not go worng nice round bass line from them from about 30 to 45 on the bass test CD if you want to use outside best to stack them in 4s my bro is a DJ now and i build all his bins and for other too :)
I got to say as it will go for how long your box will last its only down to your skill if you think your not up to the job dont waste money get a friend to help who knows how to work with wood 3/4 inch ply is best MDF is ok but heavy chip bord works well but will not last a long life on the road for the scoop you can use a hot air gun to bend the ply in shape but take your time its not a race and have fun building
can I use a plan board instead of the curve board?
thanks!
use 1/8 or 3/16 marine flywood
WOW! Plans are not clear on the types of joints to make or where cleats are really ecessary. Glue and screw every connection and this monster cabinet will not rattle or vibrate.
And perform; the low-end punch these cabinets provide is just what performing bands want: thump and throw.
Square edges and mitered edges/angles are very important. I did make one change in the design. Instead of using a single cleat to support the curvature of the scoop, I made braces by cutting a circle within a 40" x 40" square piece of .375" plywood that gave a 19.375" radius as a bed for laminating the two pieces of .125" formica - provides the 20" radius scoop. I put three of these braces in each cabinet. Helped to support the weight placed on the two corner wheels.
These are quite impressive. Already there is interest in building more.
pls if u tell about in 18inch i used speaker challenger 700 watt,what change occoued in bassbin plstell.its used for outdoor parties...
hello, i intend to make some of these one problem i need a cutting list i
work out from most parts but the baffels inside i cant work out the lenght
without actually marking it out to scale, can anyone help?
ez! if you build 18" then look for 18" super scooper for a PD1850 , fairly more complex to build then these, but they're sweeet!
almost finished a pair of these with 15" RCF 800watts on 8 ohm
looking forward to the testfase! :)
thx for the plans!!!
I was wondering if you had plans for this using an 18" subwoofer? Or if I could just
build this using these measurements with just an 18" hole for the driver? Any help
you could give me would be great!
help pleasei am loking for some plans of the 15" Bass-Scoop Rear Horn Loaded Cabinet
i have already made one its awesome
Hi,
I have two A&D Audio R 1530 here. Do they fit into this enclosure ?
And do you think they go deep enough for reggae/dub ?
Regards
Micha
What would I divide all the measurements by if I want to put a 12inch speaker
made a 8" version of this one and the bass is DEEP!!! it's truely amazing. i'm going to make 2 18" bass scoops. very excited about it!
plans don't add up for15" what is wrong
very good plans guys its amazing bins just work well. You guys also try it plz guys
Would this 15" speaker be a good candidate for these boxes?
Re 5.46 Ohms
Le 1.67 mH
QM 14.98
QE 0.35
QT 0.34
Xmax 7.90 mm
Pmax 500 Watts
Bl 17.07 Tm
Coil Diameter 3 Inches
Gap Height 0.375 Inches
Efficiency 1.84 %
fs 27.6 Hz
Mms 107.7 grams
Cms 0.309 mm/N
Rms 1.246 N*sec/m
Vas 318.6 liters
SD 856.3 cm^2
EBP 78.9
Magnet Weight 105 ounces
Winding Width 1.000 inches
SPL 94.7 dB 1W-1m
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