Ideal for club and party systems, this is a really easy to build ported cabinet of the type you see used by sound-systems which can be built for various speaker sizes, (and as a smaller full-range speaker if you add a crossover and tweeter), but is added here primarily for people to build for their bass cabs!
These plans were sent in by Peter at Celestion UK (thanks mate!), and will work with all their branded speakers and others (LINK TO CELESTION PA DRIVERS PAGE)... a real easy cab.... sizes included for different drivers. - VERY easy to build and you can simply double the width dimension to add two 18" drivers to make a dual bass cab!!!
The entire cabinet has a planed hardwood baton all around the side and top/bottom & front/back inside-edges for SOLID re-enforcement!.... Make sure you fit the batons well if built for 18" bass!!.... Use quality Plywood if you can afford it.. if not, use MDF... probably it'll be best to also add metal corner re-inforcing plates too to protect the corners from getting mashed when you move it... and add a steel mesh/grill to the outside to stop the speaker getting bashed in.
The best way to build this sort of box, is to saw all your batons and side & top/bottom panels first, then fit the batons all round the edges of the side-panels... glueing and screwing them down firmly all round the edges leaving an 18mm gap between the panel-edges & the baton so that the front, back, top and bottom panels fit snugly against the batons & flush with the side-panel edges when offered up to the baton...
Leave the sides overnight after fitting the batons so the glue can FULLY dry!!... DRY WOODGLUE IS HARDER THAN WOOD so use plenty of glue so it oozes out after fitting and screwing down the batons... wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth and leave to dry!...
The side-panels will then be 100% solid..... The next day, offer up the top & bottom plates first and drill & screw them down so you have a finished box but with no front or back panels...
Finaly create your front panel with the round hole for the speaker, and screw & glue that down firmly...
NEXT create your back panel & fit it... either screwed ONLY if the speaker-driver is rear-loading, so you can remove the back-panel and change the driver if it blows... or if the driver is front-loading, glue & screw the rear panel too.... AFTER FITTING YOUR CONNECTOR SOCKET OF COURSE!!!...
Ok......mark everything out and check it all fits before drilling and glueing & screwing it together...
All in all it's easy eh!!.... if creating a dual 18" then you can further re-enforce the front speaker-carrying panel with batons screwed & glued running across the front-panel inside face between the speaker holes....
If you build the box for a 10" or 12" speaker you can add a tweeter & crossover...
Check it out, and good luck!
[all measurements in mm]
[3 'option' sets of measurements for each driver (except 10"/12") - each builds the same volume box.]
| LOUDSPEAKERS |
Ported bass cabinet for 10", 12", 15" & 18" drivers |
| PERFORMANCE |
not listed |
| CONSTRUCTION |
Pretty simple.
make sure all edges are glued and screwed well... this has to be really well built to withstand bass vibrations without farting and buzzing... so add PLENTY of glue until it oozes out when you join the edges together for the final screw down. |
| MATERIALS |
18mm, 3/4", 8' X 4' board (2438 X 1219) ply or MDF |
| VOLUME |
Total = 30 - 150 litres
For a 2 bass-driver / Dual 18" cab: double the cabinet width (X) and duplicate the speaker-driver port/hole... (and mebbe add baton bracing-struts, as noted above, to the inside face of speaker-carrying front-panel for extra strength |
[plans will print out to an A4 page]
(very important to read this !!)
Good luck & happy building!
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